Salmon Manicotti with Lemon Bechamel Sauce

Apricots add a sweet note to balance this salmon filling.  The mixture could also be used in layers in a seafood lasagna, or for salmon burgers (see Cook's Note).

8 manicotti shells

Filling:
6 cups fresh baby spinach leaves
1 lb salmon, skinned and finely diced
6 dried apricots, finely chopped
Palmful fresh parsley, minced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 egg white
Zest of 1/2 lemon

6-8 fresh sage leaves, minced
1/4 tsp salt
Fresh ground pepper to taste

Lemon Bechamel:
3 Tbsp butter
2 Tbsp flour
1/4 cup white wine
1 cup milk
Juice of 1 lemon, about 1/4 cup

1/2 lb mozzarella cheese, grated
zest of the other 1/2 lemon

Zest your lemon and divide in half. Set aside.

Bring 3 quarts water to a boil in a pot. Meanwhile, sauté the spinach leaves in a bit of olive oil in a large skillet, until the leaves wilt and turn dark green. Spoon out any excess water if necessary. Set spinach adde in a strainer, and press lightly to remove any excess water. The spinach can be moist - no need to manhandle the spinach!

Turn the spinach into a mixing bowl and add the remaining filling ingredients.

Gently fold together - I use my clean hands, but you can use a spatula if you prefer.

When the manicotti pasta is cooked al dente, drain and set aside.

Preheat oven to 375. Prepare the Bechamel sauce by melting the butter in the oil in a saucepan. Add the flour and cook for about 3-5 minutes, until the flour emits a nutty fragrance. Add the wine and milk and bring back to a gentle boil, whisking very often. Whisk in the lemon juice and adjust thickness with a bit more milk, if necessary. You should have a pourable creamy sauce.

Using a teaspoon and your clean fingers, fill the manicotti shells with the salmon mixture. This is messy and fun - enjoy! When you were a kid, you would have loved this. But be careful of asking the kids to do this; you have to be very, very gentle with the manicotti or they will bust apart on you.

Place the manicotti in a baking casserole, and pour the sauce over them. Scatter the cheese on top.

Bake about 30-45 minutes, until the cheese begins to brown the the casserole bubbles a bit.

Serves 4.

Cook’s Note: This mixture is perfect for salmon burgers if you add about a half cup Panko bread crumbs.

Form patties, and sauté in a non-stick skillet until browned on both sides.

Serve with a tartar sauce on a salad or a bun, as you wish.

And it's great with scattered feta or goat cheese.

Pimenton Tartar Sauce

A bit of paprika and Tabasco sauce adds a pink hue, perfect for salmon!

1 cup plain Greek Yogurt
1/2 cup good, real mayonaise
1 rounded tablespoon India Relish
1 clove garlic, pressed through a garlic press
1/2 tsp dried dill weed
1/2 tsp Pimenton, smoked Spanish paprika
1 Tbsp lemon juice
dash Tabasco or other favorite hot sauce, optional
salt and pepper to taste

Whisk all ingredients together. Chill before serving.

Cook’s Note: We use this basic preparation for fish, with or without the pimenton and Tabasco. Using a 2:1 mix of yogurt (Greek, please, or you will have a runny consistency) to mayonnaise, adds lightness and a fresher flavor. Not quite a Greek Tsatsiki, and not quite an Italian Aioli, this is a hybrid sauce, much lighter than tartar sauces typically served with fish. And please note, no sugar or honey - so many sauces out there are too sweet; keep it light.

Asparagus Orzo

I'll move off my asparagus kick just as soon as the asparagus is no longer so incredibly sweet, fresh and abundant.  A good, high ratio of veggie to grain, this is a great single side that matches almost anything grilled 'in a single bound'.

1 bunch asparagus, diced, tips reserved
1 small red pepper, diced
1 leek, trimmed, cleaned and diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
8-10 fresh lemon balm leaves, minced
1/2 lb. orzo

Bring 2 quarts of water to a boil in a medium pot. Meanwhile, sauté pepper and leek in a large skillet in a bit of olive oil. Allow the veggies to soften a bit, about 5 minutes.

Add a good rounded tablespoon of Kosher salt to the water and stir in the orzo. Cook the orzo, stirring every once in a while, until just al dente.

While the orzo cooks, add the garlic and lemon balm to the veggies and continue to cook over medium-low heat, allowing the veggies to caramelize a bit and become fragrant.

Place asparagus tips in a small non-metallic bowl with a tablespoon of water. Salt an pepper to taste and gently toss with your fingers. Microwave for about 30-60 seconds, just to heat the tips through. Remove from oven and drain out water.

When the orzo is al dente, drain, and tip into skillet with veggies. Stir to mix well and pour into a serving bowl.

Garnish with asparagus tips and serve with Parmesan cheese.

Serve 4-6 as a side dish.

Cook’s Note: You can use any herb you like for seasoning. Now that fresh herbs are coming out, you have many possibilities. For a slightly more robust flavor you could use fresh sage leaves, oregano or thyme.

Risotto con Funghi e Asparagi

Our CSA continues the spring bounty of asparagus and mushrooms.  Little did I know that the Mid-Atlantic is known as a mushroom capitol!  Fresh organic CSA asparagus and baby Portabello mushrooms make for a great Risotto.
4-6 cups broth, chicken or vegetable
1 onion, diced
6 oz mushrooms, diced
1-1/2 cups short grain rice
1/2 cup white wine
1/4 tsp red pepper flakes
1 bunch asparagus, diced, 2-inch tips reserved
2 Tbsp butter
1/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese

Warm the broth in a pot to a high simmer. Heat a glug of olive oil in a medium pot and add the onion. Allow to soften for about 3-5 minutes, stirring once in a while. Turn heat to high and add the mushrooms. Cook the mixture down to allow the mushrooms to release what water they will, and to begin to brown just a bit, about 5 minutes. Add the rice and sauté to allow the rice to turn from white to translucent, about another 5 minutes. You may need to add a bit more oil.

Add the wine and stir rice mixture until most of the wine has evaporated. Add ladle-fulls of broth and stir, until each addition has been absorbed just enough to allow a wooden spoon to traverse the rice mixture, just leaving a dry trough. Add more broth and continue for about 15 minutes. Stir often.

Microwave the asparagus tips in a small bowl with a tablespoon of water, slightly salted, for 30 seconds.

Add the diced asparagus stems to the risotto and continue the addition of broth as described above. Continue until the rice becomes just al dente. You may or may not use all of the broth. If you need a bit more liquid, just use water. Salt and pepper to taste.

Add the butter and the Parmesan and mix to ensure a smooth, velvety preparation. When the rice is toothy and al-dente, adjust the liquid to achieve a creamy consistency. Err on the side of a moister risotto, as it will dry up a bit in the serving bowl. Transfer to serving bowls and top decoratively with asparagus spears.

Serves 4.

Cook's Note:  Arborio is a classic Italian short grain rice used for risotto.  But there are many other (Spanish, Asian) short grain rice varieties (and other grains) that can be used as well.  Here, I actually used Nishiki short grain white rice, which is also used for Sushi. It was creamy, but toothy - and delicious.

Asparagus and Leek Tart

Our CSA is brimming over with fresh spring asparagus, and I can't get enough of the stuff.  Pair them with leeks and a hazelnut crust, and you get a side dish that should be a desert!
1 leek, trimmed, cleaned and diced
2 Tbsp butter
1 bunch thin asparagus
1 cup grated mozzarella cheese
Favorite hot sauce or salsa to taste

1/2 Recipe Hazelnut Crust:
1/4 cup hazelnuts
3/4 cup flour
1/2 tsp salt
1/2 stick butter, cubed and placed in freezer for 10 minutes
3 Tbsp ice water

Prepare the dough for the crust. First toast the hazelnuts in a 375F oven (I use a toaster oven) for about 3 to 5 minutes, shaking once or twice. Watch the nuts closely, being very careful not to burn them, which can happen quickly. Keep oven preheated at 375F.

Let the nuts cool and then tip them into a large food processor. Pulse them to form a fine, but dry grind, being careful not to over process to almond butter! Add the flour and salt and pulse together.

Next, add the butter and pulse together just enough to form a coarse mixture. Pulse in the water by the tablespoon-ful. Add only enough just so that the dough pulls together. Tip dough out onto a floured counter and form into a disk. Wrap with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 375F. Meanwhile, sauté the leek in the butter over medium heat. As the leeks soften, cook the asparagus in a pot of salted, boiling water for about 5 minutes. Drain the asparagus, and allow to cool enough to handle. Cut the tips just wide enough for the tart pan, making sure you at least cut enough of the tough end of the stalk off.

When the dough has chilled, roll it out on a clean surface with some flour, to the shape of the tart pan. I used a non-stick 4x14-inch tart pan with a removable bottom. Place the dough into the pan and trim the edges. Spread the leeks onto the crust and then sprinkle with the cheese. Season with hot sauce or salsa to taste.

Lay the asparagus spears over the cheese decoratively, and sprinkle on some fresh salsa to Taste.

Bake the tart for about 30 minutes, until the crust browns nicely and the tart is hit and bubbly. Remove from oven and allow to cool a bit. Remove from tart pan and transfer to a serving platter.  Sprinkle with fresh salsa or chopped tomatoes as garnish.

Serves 4 as an appetizer or side dish.

Sesame Chili Pork Stir Fry

I love Chinese Twice Cooked Pork, and love cabbage in stir fry's.   Stir fries are not Americanized Chinese food, you can find them all over China.  But the pork they use in Twice Cooked Pork tends to be on the more marbled side than you'll find in most American Chinese restaurants - almost like a German pork belly roast.

My Chinese colleagues introduced me to a relatively authentic Chinese restaurant locally, that they rather prefer.  Once I ordered the Twice Cooked Pork, and the waiter politely ask me if I was sure I would like it.  He said the meat will be... "different".  And it was.  And delicious, though quite marbled, almost to the point of uncured bacon.  But oh boy, was that good! I'd have to say it was authentic compared to the Twice Cooked Pork I recently had in Beijing (see below) - with the same outstanding pork fat back.

You can use many cuts of pork you prefer, from lean to marbled. Here, I used boneless pork country ribs, which has light and dark meat, and is medium in the lean-marble scale. Probably more attuned to the typical American taste.  But if you can find the Chinese cut, by all means use it for this dish.
1 lb pork, cut into bite-sized pieces
2 cloves garlic
1-inch fresh ginger, minced
1 large carrot, sliced
1 onion, sliced
1 green pepper, sliced
2 cups coarsely cut cabbage
Toasted sesame seeds

Sauce:
2 Tbsp Hoisin sauce
2 Tbs Gochujan Korean chili and bean paste
1/2 cup pale dry sherry
2 tsp sesame oil

Whisk together the sauce ingredients.

Heat a slug of canola oil in a really hot wok or large deep skillet. Toss in the pork and stir fry for 3-5 minutes, browning the meat well. Set the pork aside. Add the remaining veggies and stir fry, adding a bit more oil if necessary. Stir very often, just allowing the veggies to brown on the edges. When the veggies have just begun to soften, and are crisp tender, return the pork to the wok. Heat through and then add the sauce. Bring to a boil. Serve with rice and top with sesame seeds.

Serves 4-6.

Cook's note:  There are lots of ways to flavor this dish, and you can use your favorite veggies to pair with the pork.  Here I use hoisin sauce with Korean spicy bean paste.  Recently I had this dish at a restaurant on Wolfe Road, in Cupertino nestled in a group of authentic Chinese restaurants right across the street from Apple's new HQ construction site. These restaurants are famous in the area, and are going to do well with their prime location!

I knew this restaurant was authentic when I read that the menu and it had both beef and chicken entrail dishes!

I had the Twice Cooked Pork which had celery as the main veggie, and they also used that fantastic marbled pork fat back. Very delicious, with a black bean sauce base.

But cabbage and green peppers seem to be the more typical veggies for Twice Cooked Pork in the US.  In Beijing, I had it with red and green peppers and choy sum at the famous Peking Duck House, near the Olympic Village.

Twice cooked Pork (foreground), Peking Duck (background) in Beijing, China

Bird's Nest and Olympic Village, Beijing, China

Forbidden City, Beijing, China

Spanish Rice

1/2 large onion, diced, about 1 cup
1/2 yellow pepper, diced
1/2 orange pepper, diced
1 jalapeño pepper, minced
Handful fresh green beans, diced
2 Tbsp canola oil
1-1/2 cup long grain white rice
3 cups water
1 tsp onion powder
1 tsp garlic powder
1 tsp Pimenton, Spanish smoked paprika
1/2 tsp cumin powder

large pinch saffron threads, crushed, and/or 1/2 tsp turmeric
1 tsp salt

1/2 cup fresh salsa, drained

Heat the onion, peppers and green beans in the oil in a medium pot. Cook the veggies about 8-10 minutes, to soften and begin to brown them. Add the rice and cook another 5 minutes, or so, until the rice is well coated and beginning to change from translucent to white. Add the water, spices and salt, and bring to a boil. Stir once, reduce to a low simmer, cover and cook about 20 minutes. Turn off heat and allow rice to sit for 10 minutes, ideally with a tea towel laid out on top of the pot, just underneath the top.

Fluff gently with a fork, and fold in the fresh salsa

Serves 6.

Beet White Corn and Water Chestnut Salad

I always have a can of beets ready in my pantry and love them with vinaigrette.  But fresh beets have canned beat!  If you have the time, roast fresh beets and enjoy an even deeper flavor.
4 beets
1 cup frozen white corn kernels, thawed
1 can sliced water chestnuts, drained
2 Tbsp seasoned rice vinegar
2 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil
Fresh ground pepper
1 Tbsp sliced chives
1 Tbsp fresh parsley, minced

Heat oven to 375F. Wrap beets and a dash of oil in a large piece of aluminum foil. Place foil on a baking jelly roll pan and bake for an hour. Remove beets from oven, carefully unwrap beets (watching for steam!) and allow them to cool to room temperature. Slice beets in half, then slice beets.

Meanwhile, toss corn and water chestnuts together with vinegar, oil and pepper. Fold in the beets, chives and parsley.

Serves 4.

Tofu Ham and Brussels Sprouts Bake

Here's another good example of flexitarian cooking - using meat as a flavoring, as opposed to as the centerpiece of a dish.  Here we combine tofu and sweet, sautéed Brussels sprouts with just a bit of pasta and a bit of ham.  Sprinkle on a few bread crumbs and broil up golden.  You have a light, yet wholesome main course that combines the goodness of veggies and plant-based protein, with the deep flavor of meat.
1 package extra firm tofu, cubed
1/2 tsp garlic powder
1/2 tsp onion powder
1/3 lb ham, cubed
1/2 lb Brussels Sprouts, trimmed and sliced
1 small onion, sliced
1/4 cup julienned carrots
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/4 lb small penne pasta, cooked

1/2 cup panko bread crumbs
1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese
1 Tbsp olive oil

Preheat broiler.

Heat a bit of canola oil in a large non-stick skillet and toss in the tofu and ham.

Sprinkle in the onion and garlic powders, and salt and pepper to taste. Sauté until the tofu browns up nicely, about 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, heat a bit of canola oil in another large oven-going skillet and toss in the Brussels sprouts, onion and carrots. Cook about 8-10 minutes, until the sprouts begin to brown. Add the garlic and cook another 2-3 minutes. Toss in the cooked pasta and heat through. Stir in the tofu and ham.

Toss together the Panko crumbs, Parmesan and olive oil. Scatter the crumb mixture over the tofu mixture. Place under the broiler and brown the crumbs for a minute or two, watching carefully that they brown evenly and do not burn. Turn the pan under the broiler if necessary.  Serve immediately.

 Serves 4.

Blue Corn Pork Fajitas

2 pork tenderloins, cut into 1-inch disks
12 corn tortillas

Spice mix:
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp chili powder
1/2 tsp salt
1/4 tsp cayenne pepper
1/4 tsp dried thyme leaves

1 green pepper, sliced into rings
1 onion, sliced into rings
2 cups red chili enchilada sauce
Palmful fresh cilantro leaves
1 cup grated cheddar cheese
1 cup guacamole, optional

Flatten the pork disks with the palm of your hand, or using a mallet. The meat should be pressed to about 1/2 inch thickness. Mix together the spice mix ingredients in a small bowl. Lay cutlets out on a clean surface and sprinkle half the spice mix onto meat. Press into meat and flip to other side. Sprinkle on the remaining mix. This can be done well ahead of time (actually preferable).

Heat a ribbed non-stick grill pan to high and spray with a bit of canola oil. Toss on the onions and peppers and brown the rings well. Cook them just until they begin to soften, and blacken in spots, about 5 minutes.

Set onions and peppers aside in a microwaveable dish.

Reheat grill pan and oil lightly. Working in batches if necessary, grill the pork cutlets. Allow the meat to sit undisturbed on the grill pan for a few minutes to form nice brown grill marks - do not stir or move the meat too much. After 2-3 minutes, flip the meat and cook the other side.

Grill until the pork is just cooked through, about 3-5 more minutes on the second side.

Meanwhile, heat one or two small skillets to high (do not use non-stick as the heat is too high). Toast the corn tortillas for about 30 seconds on each side, just to warm them, and slightly brown in spots.

Remove to a clean folded kitchen towel or a tortilla warmer to keep warm.

Zap the onions and peppers for 30 seconds in the microwave. Then warm the chili sauce in the microwave and spoon some over the meat. Return the onions and peppers to the pan on top of the meat.

Serve the Fajitas at table side immediately (be prepared for this - immediately serving Fajitas sizzling hot is key). Set the meat and veggies alongside the tortillas. Offer cilantro, grated cheese, sour cream, guacamole and remaining chili sauce to assemble Fajitas at the table.

Serves 6.

Cook's Note: if you do not have chili sauce prepared, you can use canned sauce, or you can also use your favorite salsa.

Timing is critical for this dish, as cold Fajitas are really a bummer. So the recommendation is to read through the steps in the recipe in advance, and plan your steps (and the activities of your diners!) so as to present the Fajitas at a table ready to eat! Get your fellow diners to help set all the garnished at the table - tell them it is well worth their while.

Often, meat for fajitas is sliced.  Here I form disks because the pork tenderloin in so tender.  Slice it ip after cooking if you like.