Eat Fish (in Brittany, if you can)

Arriving in Brittany from Paris for a few days R&R, I found my cousin Christine had placed a history of Block Island on her guest room nightstand. We share a passion for a fantastic island.

She showed me her favorite corners of Brittany’s coastline, and I understood more clearly why my father always said the Southern New England and New York coastline in many ways reminded him of Brittany. Except the tides!

I have a classic T-shirt from Block Island on the front of which is written “Eat Fish”. In Brittany, I really understood that imperative. In the four days I visited, I ate ONLY FISH.

Shellfish of Brittany are especially unique – the Boulot snails in decorative coiled shells; huitres de Cancale – a unique flat and especially mild oyster my mother always told me about; Langoustines – a cross between a crayfish and a lobster; and the most tender, rich and rare Abalone you can find. Daniel is an expert at opening les huitres – watch out, a difficult job!

Besides shellfish, I enjoyed Dourade, Sole (twice!) and a great souppe de poisson. Not to mention the cheese, bread and wine! With the help of Christine’s husband Daniel, we scoured the markets and chose restaurants to sample the best of the locale of their village of St. Briac in Brittany.

Three tagines from Morocco about the cupboards were a hint that Christine knows her way around the kitchen (and the world), and is not afraid to experiment. These recipes of the open-air market ‘poissonieres’ fish mongers, of Christine, and of myself inspired from a great visit, demonstrate the essence of simplicity (and speed!) of seafood, and how seafood can also provide a foundation for stronger, more robust flavor motifs.

Langoustines Christine

2 kg fresh langoustines
1 bay leaf
500 mL water (about a quart)

Bring the water and bay leaf to a boil in a large pot. Add the langoustines and steam for about 10 minutes. Drain and cool to room temperature in the shade.

This is the ultimate in simplicity – serve as is (we did), eating with your fingers ‘sur l’herbe’, or with lemon or with any variety of tartar dipping sauces.


Boulots Bretagne
6-8 Boulot snails per person for appetizers
Water to cover

Bring water to a boil in a pot. Drop snails in water and boil gently fr 15 minutes. Set pot aside and allow water and snails to cool together in the pot. Drain snails and serve with a sharp metal or wood toothpick.

Again this is the ultimate in simplicity – serve as is (we did), eating with your fingers ‘sur l’herbe’, or with lemon or with any variety of tartar dipping sauces.


Sole au Poile (Panfried Sole)

4 sole, skin removed (fillets are fine as well)
2 Tbsp. butter
2 Tbsp. flour

Scatter flour in a plate and turn sole in the flour to coat gently. Meanwhile melt butter until bubbling in a wide non-stick skillet and tip sole into pan. Sauté for about 2-3 minutes over medium-high heat, until first side is browned. Salt and pepper to taste.

Flip fish and cook on second side about 2-3 minutes. Serve with lemon.