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Welcome to flexitarian cooking. A fusion of global flavors with lots of plants, some seafood and a bit of meat now and again.



Sunday, June 29, 2008

To Grill is Human

The smell of barbeque by the side of a gorgeous reservoir bordered by fragrant pines in the Green Mountains of Vermont is a summer childhood memory that will never leave me. We’d pile into our station wagon and debate which lakeside spot was best for folding down our tailgate. We made our fire in standard-issue metal State Park grills using native wood to start our charcoal. It took forever. Us kids swam and generally messed around while Dad grilled – we’d get wafts of the barbeque randomly interspersed with pine and lake – you don’t forget that.

I wonder – did Neanderthals hold fond memories of grilling cave-side?

Today, grilling has almost become a science, and that’s not a bad thing. With so many more choices and devices available, grilling is easier (and you could say healthier) than it was for our parents, and I’d say we do it much more often. Of course, choice invites controversy and potentially stress: benefits and limitations of gas vs. charcoal; which charcoal type is better; cedar plank or direct heat for salmon; or whether the outdoor electric grill (or indoor grill pan) can actually be considered grilling devices. Think debating professional sports.

It may be more complex now, but us gear geeks think it's more fun.

But look, don’t stress out. Nothing is stopping you from simply going lake-side with some wood and charcoal and a few pieces of chicken, and folding down your tail gate (of your SUV, that is).


I think shish kebab is one of the least stressful things to grill, and one of the most appealing. You can use almost any meat, fowl or seafood, with almost any vegetable and basting sauce. You really can’t go wrong. How stressful is that?!

Beef Kebabs with a Honey-mustard and Onion Baste
2 lb beef sirloin, cut into 1-inch cubes
2 small zucchini, sliced about ¼-inch
2 small yellow summer squash, sliced about ¼-inch
1 purple onion, cut into wedges
1 large red pepper, cut into 1-inch pieces

basting sauce:
1 small onion, finely diced
¼ cup Dijon mustard
¼ cup honey
¼ cup olive oil
juice and jest of 1 lemon
1 tsp dried tarragon (or other herb of choice)
dash salt and pepper to taste
enough white wine (about 1 Tbsp) to make a creamy basting sauce

marinade:
1 cup red wine
2 Tbsp red wine vinegar
¼ cup canola oil
1 tsp fresh oregano (or other herb of choice)
1 onion, finely diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp sugar

Mix together marinade and pour into a zip-lock plastic bag. Marinate meat for up to a day or as long as you can, at least an hour. Whisk together basting sauce ingredients.

Drain meat and discard marinade. Skewer meat and vegetables in an alternating pattern. If you use wooden skewers, be sure to soak them in water for half an hour so they don’t burn.

Grill shish kebabs over medium grill for about 10 minutes, turning every 2-3 minutes. Salt and pepper to taste. Then start basting liberally with honey mustard baste, turning the skewers often, until the vegetables soften and the meat is cooked through to desired doneness. Serves six.


Tarragon Grilled Swordfish Kebobs with Black Bean Salsa
2 lbs swordfish (enough to make 24 1-inch cubes)
1/2 large red pepper cut into 12 1-inch pieces
1/2 large green pepper cut into 12 1-inch pieces

basting sauce:
½ cup mayonnaise
¼ cup vinaigrette dressing (June 22, 2008)
enough white wine (about 1 Tbsp) to make a creamy basting sauce
1 tsp dried tarragon
1 tsp dried dill
¼ tsp red pepper flakes
salt to taste

Black bean salsa:
1 can black beans, rinsed and drained
1 large fresh tomato, diced
palmful of fresh cilantro (or parsley)
2 cloves garlic, pressed
2 green onions, finely chopped
juice and zest of 1 lemon
2 Tbsp cider vinegar
½ tsp. salt
¼ tsp ground cumin
¼ tsp. ground black pepper
1 tsp. brown sugar

Whisk together the basting sauce and set aside. Mix together the salsa ingredients and marinate in the refrigerator at least half an hour.

Alternate the swordfish and peppers on skewers. If using wooden skewers, be sure to soak them in water for half an hour so they don’t burn.

Grill for a total of about 10 minutes, turning and basting often. Serve garnished with salsa. Serves six.


Lamb With Mint and Pineapple Yogurt, Skewered with Basil
2 lb boneless lamb, cut into 1-inch cubes
20 fresh basil leaves

Marinade:
1 8-oz container pineapple low fat yogurt
juice and zest of ½ lemon
1 tsp dried mint leaves, or 1 Tbsp fresh leaves, minced
2 cloves garlic, pressed
½ tsp red pepper flakes
1 tsp salt
fresh ground pepper

Mix together the marinade and marinate the meat for at least an hour or overnight if possible.

Alternate the lamb and basil leaves on skewers. If using wooden skewers, be sure to soak them in water for half an hour so they don’t burn.

Grill for about 10 minutes, or until meat is cooked to desired doneness, turning often. Serves six.


Our friend Cindy first taught me the basics of the teriyaki marinade – you can use it for meat, fish, fowl or even tofu. You can make many variations on the teriyaki theme – citrus goes especially well.

Grilled Salmon with a Maple Orange Teriyaki Marinade
1½ lb salmon filet

Marinade:
¼ cup soy sauce
¼ cup real maple syrup
1 tsp sesame oil
juice and zest of 1 orange
2 Tbsp chives, minced
2 cloves garlic, pressed
½ inch fresh ginger, minced
¼ tsp red pepper flakes

Whisk together the marinade ingredients. Marinate the salmon for 30-60 minutes. Grill on a well-oiled (use spray oil – carefully) hot grill, flesh side down. Place the salmon on the hot grill and don’t touch it for five minutes.

Walk away from the grill and no salmon will get hurt.

Touch it and it will fall apart – don’t do it!

After five minutes, the salmon will have formed a firm glossy surface where it contacts the grill. With a slim spatula, flip salmon and grill for about another 5 minutes, depending on the thickness. The rule of thumb is 10 minutes per inch of thickness. Remove to serving platter. Serves four.

Excellent served over sautéed spinach.


Sautéed Spinach
2 shallots, finely diced
1 tsp sugar
2 cloves garlic, halved and thinly sliced
¼ inch piece fresh ginger, minced
10 oz. fresh baby spinach
juice of ¼ lemon

In a large skillet, sauté shallots in a bit of olive oil and the sugar until beginning to caramelize, about 10 minutes. Add the ginger and garlic and cook another 3-4 minutes. Toss in the spinach and squeeze in the lemon juice. Toss until the spinach is just wilted. Salt and pepper to taste.


I have finally mastered the art of grilling pork tenderloin. This is one of my favorite cuts of pork, but when the edges were done to perfection I was always left with a near-raw center when grilling the whole loin. I now simply cut the whole tenderloin in half, and I use a slim digital thermometer inserted just to the center of one of the halves. I grill, turning a few times, until the center registers 140F. Then I let it sit on a cutting board, covered with aluminum foil for about 10 minutes. The temperature usually rises about 5-8 degrees, resulting in a nice juicy medium rare center.

Grilled Pork Tenderloin with Apple, Mint and Tomato Compote
2 trimmed pork tenderloins, cut in half

compote:
1 onion, finely diced
1 tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp dried mint
1 can diced tomatoes and jalapenos, drained
1 tsp sugar
1 cup apple sauce
½ cup white wine

Prepare the compote by sautéing the onion in a bit of olive oil for about 10 minutes, or until the onion is very softened and a bit caramelized. Add the cumin seeds and mint after about 8 minutes, to bring out their flavor by cooking in the hot oil. Raise the heat and add the tomatoes and sugar. Cook for about 5 minutes, stirring often, so the tomatoes sizzle and also caramelize a bit. Add the applesauce and wine and simmer while you grill the pork.

Insert a digital thermometer into the center of one of the tenderloin halves. Salt and pepper to taste. Grill the pork until the center registers 140F or until it is done to your taste. Remember the pork will cook about 5-10 degrees more on standing covered with aluminum foil on a cutting board.

After allowing the pork to rest 10 minutes, slice the tenderloin on a bias and serve with the tomato compote. Garnish with fresh mint if you like. Serves six.

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