Chicken Soft Shell Tacos

We had the best food trucks from Philly (famous around the nation!) come to our company fall picnic this year - what a great idea for variety and quality - no overcooked bear claws or soggy sub sandwiches.  Rather we had outstanding soft shell tacos that were really world class.  Kudos to the organizers.

I reverse engineered the chicken tacos here (they unfortunately ran out of the shrimp tacos before I got on line!), and only left out the Mexican queso fresco cheese, which I didn't have.  If you don't either, but do have feta - go ahead and use (sparingly) - a bit saltier, but generally the same feel.
Crema Sauce:
1/2 cup yogurt
1/2 cup mayo
1/2 cup sour cream
1/4 cup seasoned rice vinegar
1 tsp dried dill
1/2 tsp garlic powder
1 tsp crushed chipotle chilis, or favorite chili powder

5 chiken thighs
1 onion, diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 Tbsp fresh oregano, minced
1 Tbsp fresh thyme, minced
2-3 chipotle peppers, in adobo sauce, minced
2 cups water

6 6-inch flour tortillas
palmful fresh cilantro, chopped

Brown the chicken thighs in a large skillet, on both sides. Salt and pepper to taste. Remove to a bowl and add the onion to the skillet.

Cook the onion for about 5 minutes, until softened.  Add the garlic, oregano and thyme. Cook another 2-3 minutes.

Return the chicken to the skillet. Add the chipotle peppers and the water and stir.

Cover and simmer for about 10 minutes. Add the beans and cook for about another 10 minutes, until the chicken falls off the bone.

Remove the thighs from the skillet to a plate. Discard the skin and shred the meat from the bones using two forks.

Return the meat to the skillet, adjust seasoning and heat through.

Place tortillas on plates. Spoon some chicken-bean mixture onto each tortilla and top with pico de gallo, crema sauce and cilantro.

Makes 6 tacos, serving 3-4

Cold Sesame Noodles with Grilled Hoisin Chicken

I needed something quick, jumping onto a flight in San Francisco, and didn't want that same old turkey wrap again, nor those sad offerings they try to sell you now on domestic flights...

Popped into a Pete's Coffee shop and found a fantastic cold noodle salad with chicken breast.  It was so good I reverse engineered it here. Next time you find a Pete's, give these a try if they have them - or just make'm yourself!
Chicken Marinade:
3 cloves garlic
1/2 inch fresh ginger
1/4 cup hoisin sauce
1/4 cup sherry
1 Tbsp seasoned rice vinegar
1/4 cup canola oil

1-1/2 lb chicken breast (3-4), pounded to 1/2-inch thickness
1/2 lb angel hair pasta, snapped in half
1 red pepper, finely diced
3 green onions, finely diced
palmful fresh cilantro or Italian Parsley, mined

Noodle Dressing:
1/2 cup hoisin sauce
2 Tbsp seasoned rice vinegar
1 Tbsp sugar
1/4 cup canola oil
1 Tbsp sesame oil
1 tsp chili paste with garlic sauce

Prepare the marinade. Pulse the garlic and ginger in a small food processor until minced. Add the remaining ingredients and pulse until forming a smooth marinade. Reserve 1/4 cup of the marinade for grilling later.

Tip marinade into a large bowl or casserole and add the chicken. marinate at least 1-2 hours or overnight in the refrigerator. When ready to grill, return the chicken to room temperature.

Bring a medium pot of water to boil and salt generously with a tablespoon kosher coarse salt. Cook the pasta ,stirring occasionally, until al dente. Drain and rinse with cold ager to stop the cooking. Tip into a large bowl and set aside. When cool, add the dressing to the cooled noodles.

Add the pepper, onions and cilantro and place in refrigerator to chill up a bit.

Meanwhile, heat a grill to high. Grill the chicken for about 3-4 minutes per side, basting with the reserved marinade. Cook until the chicken is just cooked through and the surface is nicely browned. Remove chicken to a cutting board and allow to sit about 5 minutes.

Now slice the chicken. Plate the noodles, placing chicken on top. Garnish with extra cilantro and sesame seeds if you have.

Serves 4.

Cook's Note:  I always cook up a big batch of chicken - six breasts at a time, because I freeze leftover breasts, each in a little ziplock baggie, for use in salads and tacos later.  Great ingredient to have on hand.

Chickpea and Artichoke Sandwich Salad

A great spread for sandwiches and salads, toasts and pizzas. Veggie based and full of rich flavors.
1 can chickpeas, rinsed and drained
1 carrot, peeled and quartered
1 clove garlic
2 green onions
1 Tbsp purple onion
Palmful fresh parsley leaves
8 oz marinated artichoke hearts, drained
2 Tbsp good real mayonnaise
dash red pepper flakes

Pulse the carrot and garlic together in a small food processor, until finely ground. 

Transfer to a bowl. Add the chickpeas to the processor and pulse only a few times to just break up the beans to a very coarse mix. Transfer to bowl with carrots.  Add the green and purple onion along with the artichoke hearts to the processor and pulse to a fine chop. Add to the bowl with the chickpeas.

Add the mayonnaise and red pepper flakes to the mix and stir well. Salt and pepper to taste. Chill in the refrigerator.

Serve in sandwiches, pitas or as a salad on greens.

Serves 4 in sandwiches or served as salad.

Pesto Rigatoni with Shrimp

Basil harvest is here and making pesto can be a gift to all your fiends.  Melding pesto with ricotta is a great way to make a delicate, smooth sauce - save pasta cooking water to adjust exactly to your liking.

Here I also add cauliflower, just at the very end of pasta cooking, to add slight crunch and a vegetable depth I am seeking in most all my pasta dishes these days.
1/2 lb rigatoni
16 shrimp (20-25/lb), peeled
4 cups cauliflower floweretts, about 4 cups
1/2 cup pesto
1/2 cup ricotta cheese
Red chili flakes to taste
Grated Parmesan, if desired

Set about 6 cups water in a medium pot to the boil for the pasta. Salt generously with at least 2 Tbsp kosher salt and add the pasta. Cook for about 7-8 minutes, until just about 1-2 minutes before al dente. Add the cauliflower and cook another 2 minutes.

While the pasta cooks, combine the ricotta and pesto in a small food processor and blend to a paste. Reserve about a half cup pasta cooking water to adjust the pesto sauce thickness.

Meanwhile, heat a medium skillet on high heat with a dash of olive oil. Add the shrimp and sear on one side for about a minute and a half. Salt and pepper to taste. Turn shrimp and cook another 30-60 seconds on the other side, just until heated through. Remove from heat.

When the pasta and cauliflower are cooked, drain well. Turn into a large bowl and add the pesto sauce.

Toss and thin with pasta cooking water to form a nice smooth sauce for the pasta. Tip into a serving bowl or platter and top with the sautéed shrimp. Garnish with red chili flakes and fresh parsley if desired, along with grated Parmesan.

Serves 4.

Basil Lox and Flatbread with Fresh Ricotta

The remoulade sauce, fresh basil and horseradish really make this a special lox open face.
1/2 cup Remoulade aioli
4 servings favorite flatbread
1/4 lb cream cheese
2 Tbsp purple onion, finely diced - as preferred
12-16 leaves fresh basil
1/4 lb smoked salmon (lox)
2 Tbsp capers
1 Tbsp grated horseradish
1/4 cup fresh ricotta cheese
1 tsp dill weed (fresh, preferred or dried

Divide remoulade sauce evenly among the flatbreads and spread evenly. Then do the same with the cream cheese. Evenly distribute the purple onion over the cream cheese and then lay 3-4 basil leaves on top of each serving.

Next, divide the salmon evenly, covering the cream cheese on each flatbread serving. Now sprinkle the capers evenly about each flatbread and follow with the horseradish. Then dot each serving with a few dollops of ricotta and garnish with the dill weed.

Serves 4 for breakfast or as an appetizer.

Cook’s Note: Of course you could use your favorite bagel or toasted English muffin - I just think there are so many great new flatbreads out there these days, that might be slightly lighter than a thick bagel. Go with your whim.

This works as a great appetizer - just slice or cube the flatbread into bite-sized pieces.

Artichoke Remoulade Aioli

This is classic spicy aioli sauce that goes with so many things from grilled fish and meats to dipping crispy veggies.  Use on sandwiches or a dollop topping for a fresh salad or a soup.

In this remoulade, I add marinated artichokes, but that's just me.  Others use celery, or just fresh parsley.  I also lighten the sauce with fresh ricotta - again, that's just me.

Originally French, this sauce has been morphed with the essence of Louisiana, so you'll see many recipes with cajun spices - I just use red chili peppers here to give it a bit of a kick.  There are myriad variations to make this sauce your own. But don't forget the cournichons, capers, garlic and grainy mustard - real signatures that add body to a Remoulade.
3 cloves garlic
1 Tbsp fresh thyme

1 small jar marinated artichoke heart quarters, drained
4 small cournichon pickles, about 2 Tbsp, cut in half
palmful fresh cilantro
2 tsp seedy Dijon mustard
1 Tbsp horseradish
1 tbsp capers
1 tsp dried dill weed
1/4 tsp red pepper flakes

1 cup good real mayonnaise
1/2 cup ricotta
juice of 1/2 lime

Place the garlic and thyme in a food processor. Mince.

Add the next group of ingredients: artichoke hearts, pickles, cilantro, mustard, horseradish, capers and dill to the processor.

Chop well.

Scrape down and then add the mayonnaise, ricotta and lime. Process until smooth and saucy.
Makes about 2 cups.

Fresh Fish Lasagna

Don't let meat drive your lasagna designs.  And don't let the thought that lasagna takes just too much time, and is too complicated, to scare you away.  No-boil noodles stand in beautifully when on the go, and make it a practical weeknight endeavor.  And oh hey, this makes a fantastic way to build more fish into your diet.  Eat more fish.
10 oz fresh button mushrooms (or 1 can, drained)

2 Tbsp butter plus 1 Tbsp canola oil
1/4 cup flour
2 cups chicken or fish broth
1/4 cup half and half
1 tsp dried tarragon flakes

1 lb fresh ricotta
1/4 cup grated parmesan cheese
palmful fresh parsley leaves, minced
2 green onions, thinly sliced
2 cloves garlic, minced through a garlic press
dash crushed red pepper flakes

1 lb thin white, flakey, skinless fish fillets, such as tilapia or flounder

enough sheets no-boil lasagna for 2 layers (see Cook’s Note)
1/2 lb fresh mozzarella, sliced
12 fresh basil leaves

Preheat oven to 375F. If using fresh, sauté mushrooms undisturbed in a large skillet over high heat with a dash of olive oil. When they begin to release what water they will, stir and continue cooking until lightly browned. Set aside.

Melt the butter in the oil in a small sauce pan. Let the butter bubble off most of its water - about a minute and then add the flour. Whisk together over medium heat to cook the flour in the oil. Add the broth, half and half and tarragon. Bring to a gentle boil, whisking very often. Allow the sauce to thicken, stir and set aside.

Mix together the ricotta, parsley, green onion, parmesan, garlic and red pepper flakes together in a small bowl.

Now assemble the lasagna by pouring a third of the sauce into an oiled 9x13-inch casserole. Spread even over the surface. Lay half the no-boil lasagna sheets over the sauce. Carefully spread the ricotta over the lasagna sheets. Lay the fish fillets over the ricotta and cover with another third of the sauce.

Lay the remaining no-boil lasagna sheets over the fish. Top the lasagna with the mushrooms and basil.

Top with the mozzarella and the remaining sauce.

Cover with aluminum foil and bake for 30 minutes. Uncover and bake another 20-30 minutes, until browned and bubbly.

Serves 4-6.

Cook’s Note: There are many no-boil lasagna options in the markets. I use an imported Italian brand which is about 7-8 inches square. I snap one in half and combine it with a whole sheet - one and a half sheets covers a 9x13-inch casserole very well.

You could use many different types of fish for this dish. I would not, however use a very thick fillet as it might not cook evenly, and might overwhelm the balance of the dish. Just make sure you use skinless fish.

Carolina Beef Flat Ribs

This is a more tangy BBQ sauce, reminiscent of Carolina Southern mustard BBQ sauces, rather than deep rich smokey red Texan sauces.  This is great with ribs, pork or whatever you are grilling, especially lighter pieces.
A Carolina BBQ Sauce:
1/3 cup ketchup
2 cloves garlic
1/3 cider vinegar
1 Tbsp Dijon mustard
1 Tbsp seasoned rice vinegar
1/3 cup canola oil

2 racks beef back flat ribs, about 3-4 lb

Blend BBQ sauce ingredients together in a small food processor.

Heat grill to high. Grill ribs for about 10-15 minutes, turning several times. Mind the ribs because the fat can flame up, and you want to manage the flames. As much as I like a good char on the ribs, I keep one side of the grill medium and the other HOT. I swap back and forth to manage the cooking. I like the ribs medium rare - I find this flat cut of ribs does not really need the slow 5-6 hour cooking that so many short ribs (very thick, English cut) might enjoy.

After about 10 minutes cooking, start slavering on the BBQ sauce, now flipping every 30-60 seconds, to manage the heat on the sweets sauce - too long on one side will burn the sauce.

I know cooking ribs is like religion, so you cook it the way you believe. I cooked about another 15-20 minutes, turning and basting often. I end with a good major slathering and then remove the ribs to a cutting board. Cut ribs apart and plate.

Serves 2.

Blueberry Brie Smoked Salmon Thai Noodle Salad

The freshness of the blueberries contrasts the richness of the brie and smoked salmon so nicely.  And the slightly sweet notes of the Thai dressing brings the noodles and kale out of the wallpaper.  I'm not letting summer go.
4 oz fine dried Thai rice noodles

Dressing:
2 Tbsp Thai Sweet Chili sauce
2 Tbsp seasoned rice vinegar
1 tsp Dijon mustard
2 Tbsp canola oil

5 oz baby kale (or spinach)
1 cup fresh ripe blueberries
2 Belgian Endive, thinly sliced
1/4-1/3 lb ripe Brie cheese, cubed
1 orange pepper, sliced
2 Tbsp sunflower seeds
2 tsp wasabe paste, if desired
4 slices slices smoked salmon, chopped

Hydrate the noodles by bringing 4 cups water to a boil in a medium pot. Salt generously and tip in the noodles. Stir and remove from heat. Let hydrate, fluffing with tongs from time to time until the noodles just become al dente - about 15 minutes. Drain well.

Whisk together the dressing ingredients in a small bowl.

Set out four plates. Divide the kale among the plates to form a bed. Divide the noodles on top of the kale and then scatter the blueberries, endives, brie and pepper on top.

Next, divide the smoked salmon in piles in the middle of each salad. Dress each salad according to taste. Garnish each salmon center with a dollop of wasabe, if using, and sprinkle each salad with sunflower seeds.  Sprinkle with crushed red chili flakes if desired.

Serves 4.

Bali Sambal Matah Grilled Beef Salad

Beef, flavored with sweet, hot and umami flavors from Bali, quickly grilled and tossed over a slaw with Asian flavor notes. This screams summer.
Marinade:
1/4 cup Sambal Matah, Indonesian chili paste (see Cook’s Note)
2 Tbsp brown sugar
1 Tbsp seasoned rice vinegar
1 Tbsp nam pal, Thai fish sauce
2 Tbsp canola oil
palmful Thai basil leaves, minced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/2-inch fresh ginger, minced

1 lb London Broil beef steak

Dressing:
2 Tbsp Thai Sweet Chili sauce
2 Tbsp seasoned rice vinegar
1 tsp Dijon mustard
2 Tbsp canola oil

4 cups Savoy cabbage, (or Romaine lettuce)thinly sliced
1/2 purple Bermuda onion thinly sliced
1 orange bell pepper, thinly sliced
palmful Thai basil leaves
2 Tbsp grated coconut
lime weges

Whisk the marinade ingredients together in a medium bowl.

Cut the steak into 1/4-inch thick slices, on a steep bias across grain.

Tip the steak into the marinade and marinate for at least an hour, or overnight refrigerated in a zip lock bag.

When ready to cook, heat a grill to high. If, necessary, return meat to room temperature. Grill meat on high for about a minute or two per side, just to form grill marks and cook medium rare. Remove meat to a platter.

Now toss the cabbage, onion, pepper and basil leaves into a bowl and toss with the dressing. Divide salad among 4 plates. Divide meat about the four salads and top with coconut. Serve with lime wedges.

Serves 4.

Cook’s Note: There are hundreds of sambals (red chili hot sauces) throughout Indonesia, Malaysia and Thailand. Sambal Matah is a chili paste from Bali, Indonesia. that includes lemongrass - very flavorful.  I use Trader Joe’ Sambal Matah, but if you can’t find that, you could use Sambal Oelek, another Indonesian sambal that can be found almost anywhere.  Check it out - some of these can be very hot and they vary from brand to brand.

Pad Thai Salad

Here's something fun for a pot luck.  Pad Thai is a flavorful Thai rice noodle dish.  Since it's summer, I'm chill, and I'm chilling my Pad Thai into a cool summer salad.

Thai sweet chili sauce is a key ingredient to give spicy hot and a bit of sweet to the noodles.  Thai cooking often incorporates spicy heat with sweetness, along with the umami of fish sauce.  I serve this with peanut sauce on the side, because it really seems to be popular - and is indeed delicious.  But this dish really does not need the peanut sauce if you want to simplify an already somewhat complicated, but rewarding dish, that will surely meet with radical acceptance.
1 lb wide Thai rice noodles

Pad Thai Sauce:
1/2 cup Thai sweet chili sauce
2 Tbsp seasoned rice vinegar
1 Tbsp nam pal fish sauce
juice of 1/2 lime, about 2 Tbsp
1 Tbsp sesame oil

Peanut Dressing:
1 clove garlic
1/2-inch fresh ginger
1/4 cup creamy peanut butter
juice of half a lime, about 2 Tbsp
1 Tbsp nam pal, Asian fish sauce
1 Tbsp sesame oil
1 Tbsp seasoned rice vinegar
about 2-3 Tbsp water as needed

3/4 lb chicken breast tenders, about 4-5

2 cups very small broccoli floweretts
handful fresh snow peas, cut in half on a diagonal

1 orange pepper, finely sliced
1/4 small red cabbage, finely sliced
5 oz baby arugula

1 small English cucumber, cut into matchsticks, seedy centers discarded
1/3 cup peanuts, slightly chopped
2 limes cut into eight wedges each
sprouts of choice

First get 6 cups water boiling in a large pot for the noodles. Set another medium pot with 4 cups water to the boil for the veggies. Finally set a third medium pot with 2 cups water to a boil for the chicken.

While the water comes to a boil, whip together the Pad Thai Sauce by whisking together the ingredients in a small bowl. Next, the peanut dressing. Place the garlic and ginger in a small food processor and mince well.

Then add the remaining peanut dressing ingredients and blend to a creamy consistency, adding water as needed just to achieve a nice flow of the dressing. It should not be gloppy, but should just pour off a spoon.

When the noodle water comes to a boil, add a few teaspoons salt and toss in the noodles. Stir well and remove from heat. The noodles just need to hydrate, but not really cook. Watch them over the next 10 minutes, and fluff gently with tongs as they soften. When they are only just al dente, drain. Fluff from time to time to avoid sticking.

Add the chicken to the 2 cups of water with a dash of salt and simmer for about 3-5 minutes, just until the tenders cook through. I use tenders instead of breasts so the cooking goes fast and the chicken does not toughen. Remove to a plate and allow to cool. When cool to the tough, shred with your fingers.

Now set a timer ready for 2 minutes. Add a dash of salt to the 4 cups of boiling water. Tip in the broccoli and snow peas and cook only for 2 minutes to blanche the veggies. Use the timer - be attentive; you don’t want to lose the wonderful crunch of those veggies!

Tip veggies into a strainer in the sink and rinse with cold water to stop the cooking. Allow to drain well.

Now assemble. Toss the noodles and the chicken in a large mixing bowl and fold in the Pad Thai Sauce. Add the blanched veggies along with the orange pepper and purple cabbage - Matisse would approve!

Line a very large, wide bowl with a bed of the arugula. Pile on the noodle mixture and spread about the bed. Top the noodles with chopped peanuts and arrange the cucumbers and limes around the perimeter of the dish. Garnish the center with sprouts, if desired.  Serve with peanut sauce on the side.

Serves 8-10.

Harriman Reservoir Herbed BBQ Chicken Jean

Several years ago, I described the way our father, Jean, would grill chicken on a barbecue in the summer, on the shore of the Harriman reservoir in southern Vermont.  He would wrap the pieces in aluminum foil, to keep all the juices in and stop flare-ups.  We call it Harriman Chicken Jean, executed most memorably along the shores of Harriman reservoir in Vermont.

The family debate is whether he wrapped the chicken first and then browned it unwrapped, or vice vera.  I am the youngest of the family, so may have the vaguest memory. No matter what he actually did, I wholly vote for browning first and then wrapping and baking second.  This both keeps the delicious juices for serving, but also allows you to add no end of aromatics or veggies to the chicken as it finishes.

Here is an updated version with lots of fresh herbs, and tomatoes - another shout out to the grill master, Jean!
5 chicken leg-thigh combos

Herb mixture:
3 cloves garlic, minced
1/2-inch fresh ginger, peeled and coarsely chopped
Palmful mint leaves, minced
1 Tbsp fresh thyme, minced
1/4 cup olive oil

30-40 fresh sage leaves
1 pint grape tomatoes

5 18-inch pieces aluminum foil

Heat grill. Toss the herb mixture together in a bowl.

Grill chicken on medium-high heat, skin side down first. Cook for about 8-10 minutes, until the top side of the pieces brown well and begin to crisp up. Flip chicken and cook another 3-5 minutes.

Meanwhile, mix together the herb mixture in a small bowl.

Lay out aluminum foil and evenly distribute herb mixture in the middle of each sheet. Lay a few fresh sage leaves on top of herb mixture.

Lay a leg piece, on top of each herb dollop. Lay 4 sage leaves on top of each chicken piece. Distribute the tomatoes about the chicken pieces.

Wrap each leg-thigh tightly in aluminum foil. Grill packets for about 15 minutes, turning once or twice.

Remove the packets from the grill and allow them to sit on a platter for at least 10 minutes. Carefully open, watching for steam that may release, and plate the chicken.

Pour the juices over the chicken and tip the tomatoes and sage leaves on top.

Serves 4.