Tilapia in a Lemon Caper Mushroom Dill Sauce

Any white fish fillet will work well baked in a lemony béchamel sauce.
1 Tbsp butter
1 Tbsp olive oil
12 oz mushrooms, sliced thickly

2 Tbsp butter
1 1/2 Tbsp flour
1/2 cup white wine
1/2 cup chicken broth
1 Tbsp capers
1 Tbsp fresh dill weed, or 1 tsp dried
1 lemon, one half sliced, other half quartered

3-4 tilapia fillets, enough for four people

Heat oven to 400F. Melt first bit of butter and olive oil in a large skillet, until butter is melted and froth subsides a bit. Add the mushrooms and cook over high heat until they brown a bit, about 5 minutes. Set mushrooms aside.

Toss remaining butter into pan and melt. Add flour and stir into butter. Cook this roux for about 2-3 minutes. Add the wine an broth and bring to a boil., whisking constantly. Add the dill and capers and remove from heat.

Place the fish in an oiled 13x9 inch baking dish. Pour caper dill sauce evenly over fish. Top with mushrooms and sliced lemon. Bake 10-15 minutes, until sauce bubbles and fish is just cooked through.

Serve with remaining lemon.

Serves 4.

Asian Fish Cakes

When I see a bread deal on grouper or haddock, sometimes I buy extra and freeze some to have on hand to make fish cakes.  I kick it up a notch with Thai flavors, serving on a bed rice noodle salad and greens.
1 bundle fine rice noodles (I used whole wheat)
3-4 dried shiitake mushrooms
1 carrot, peeled into ribbons
1 small red chili, sliced

Fish cake mix:
2 cloves garlic, peeled and halved
1/2 inch fresh ginger, peeled and quarterd
1 shallot, peeled and quartered

2 lb haddock, cubed
8 shrimp

1 Tbsp corn starch
palmful fresh cilantro leaves
1 tsp (or to taste) favorite hot sauce
2 Tbsp fish sauce
1 egg
1/4 cup panko crumbs

Noodle dressing:
2 Tbsp sweet Thai chili sauce
1 Tbsp seasoned rice vinegar
1 tsp sesame oil
1 Tbsp canola oil

5 oz baby arugula leaves or other favorite greens

Bring a small pot with 2 cups water to a boil. Add the dried mushrooms and the rice noodles. Remove from heat and allow to steep about 15 minutes, turning the mushrooms a few times.

If the mushrooms need more hydration time, remove the noodles with tongs and drain well. Allow noodles to cool while mushrooms finish hydrating. When soft, drain mushrooms, cool and slice.

Toss the garlic, ginger and shallot in a food processor and pulse to mince well. Add the haddock and shrimp and pulse a few times to begin to shred. Allow a few chunks to remain as you will pulse more.

Then add the corn starch, cilantro, hot and fish sauces, egg and panko crumbs.

Now pulse again to mix well, but do not puree. You want a coarse mixture with pea-sized pieces remaining.

Form into 6 patties and place on wax paper on a platter. Cool in refrigerator for 20 minutes.

While the cakes cool, whisk together the chili sauce, vinegar and oils in a medium bowl. Toss in the noodles, mushrooms and carrot threads. Toss to mix well.

Heat a dash of canola oil on a griddle or large skillet. Brown the fish cakes over medium heat about 4-5 minutes. When nicely browned, flip cakes and cook other side until nicely browned, about another 4-5 minutes.

Lay a bed of greens on each of four plates top with a serving of the noodle salad. Place a fish cake on top. Garnish with sliced red chili. Serve with lemons or limes.

Serves 4-6.

Sherried Pan Seared Salmon Tarragon over Spinach

This is fast for a weeknight meal and way less expensive than takeout or those fancy boxed meal kits through the mail.
1-1/2 lb salmon fillet (thick cut) cut into four portions
1 50-oz bad fresh baby spinach leaves
2 Tbsp butter plus 1 Tbsp olive oil
1 Tbsp dried tarragon leaves
1 clove garlic, minced
1 Tbsp oil preserved sun-dried tomatoes, minced
1/4 cup cream sherry
3 Tbsp butter plus 1 Tbsp olive oil

Season the salmon fillets with salt and pepper. 

Melt the butter and the olive oil in a non-stick skillet.

Here I used leftover herb butter, but plain butter is just fine. Sprinkle the eluted butter with the tarragon, garlic and sun-dried tomatoes.

In a separate pan, sauté the spinach leaves in a dash of oil until wilted and all their water released.

Once the butter has bubbled all the water off, lay salmon fillets quarters skin-side up in the skillet. Cook over medium-high heat for about 5 minutes until the salmon flesh browns up nicely.

Turn the fillets - skin-side down - and continue cooking about 3-5 more minutes, until medium rare, or however you like salmon. Remove to a plate and keep warm.

Add the sherry to the pan and bring to a boil. Divide spinach as a bed among four plates. Top each with a salmon fillet. Pour sauce evenly over each fillet.

Serves 4.

Cook's Note:  If you are cutting down on butter or olive oil, you can pour half of it out before you add the sherry.  But I'd reserve it for another use if you need it and can use it soon - its full of flavor.

Balsamic Glazed Roasted Brussels Sprouts and Ham

Gelson's Market in Pacific Grove, California, pulls through with the best Brussels sprouts I found in town for Thanksgiving - and I'm picky about my sprouts.  If fresh and not overcooked, these tasty treats are sweet and crunchy.

Here I pair with a mild ham and some Balsamic glaze - inspired by Ina Garten, one of my go-to cooking heroes.
4 cups Brussels sprouts, halved or quartered to a uniform 1-inch size
1 cup sliced purple Bermuda onion
1/2 lb ham steak, 1/4-3/8 inch thick, cubed
2 Tbsp olive oil
1/2 tsp Kosher salt
1/2 tsp crushed dried red chili flakes, or to taste
about 1 Tbsp Balsamic glaze (see note)

Heat oven to 425F. Mix the Brussels sprouts and onion in a large bowl.

Brown the ham in a skillet with a dash of oil for about 5 minutes, until fragrant and slightly caramelized.

Tip into the veggie mix. Add the oil, salt and chili flakes, and mix well. Tip onto a rimmed baking sheet and spread to an even, single layer.

Roast in the oven for about 10 minutes and then stir. Continue roasting another 5 or so minutes until the veggies begin to brown well.

Now remove to the stovetop and sprinkle balsamic glaze all over the veggies generously - about one tablespoon, or to taste. Return the veggies to the oven and continue roasting for about another 5-10 minutes, until the veggies are nicely browned and slightly crispy at the edges. The sprouts should only be crisp-tender, not mushy, so judge cooking time by tasting a few.

Serves 4.

Pacific Thanksgiving Table

Cook's Note:  I've seen Ina use a wonderful syrupy Balsamic vinegar and pancetta.  But I don't know that I can find as good (syrupy) a vinegar as she.  So, I always have Trader Joe's Balsamic glaze on hand which I think works perfectly well here.  I also use great local ham steaks, though pancetta is fantastic as well.  I like the moist/crunch aspect of ham cubes, though the thin salty-crispy of Ina's pancetta is a delight as well.

Don't sweat it if the sprouts shed a bunch of leaves when you cut them - that's actually a good thing - they will brown and crisp up really well.   Even if the bulk sprout doesn't brown as much by the time it is crisp tender, you will get that crispy roasted effect for the overall dish nicely.

Moroccan Lamb Burgers with Harissa Cream

Everyone seems so friendly in southern California.  You walk into the grocery store and get multiple warm smiles and hellos, even from nasty chihuahuas is ladies' purses .  What a lot of sun won't do.

I discovered Gelson's Grocery in Pacific Beach and smiled my way to their meat section.  They were well stocked with ground lamb which was score number two for them (the hellos were number one).  They also ground and mixed their own bulk sausage that looked so good I couldn't resist - score number three.

Now the real test to the store manager: "I'm looking for a rather exotic spice paste from Morocco called Harissa.  I haven't been able to find it anywhere and I realize it is not mainstream.  The last store had no idea what I was asking about, so I won't be surprised if you don't carry it."

His response, "Red or green?"  Score four, I smiled. Game over.
1 lb ground lamb
1/2 lb best sweet bulk Italian sausage, uncased
2 cloves garlic
2 Tbsp fresh mint
1 green onion
2 Tbsp fresh parsley
1/2 tsp cumin
1/4 tsp crushed red chili flakes
1/2 tsp smoked paprika
1/4 tsp salt

Harissa Cream:
palmful fresh parsley
1 clove garlic
1 green onion
2 Tbsp seasoned rice vinegar
1 Tbsp olive oil
1/2 cup plain Greek Yogurt
1-2 Tbsp Harissa (Moroccan chili paste) or other favorite hot sauce/paste

Fresh baby spinach leaves
4-6 favorite buns
1 lime, cut into wedges

Heat grill to high. Mince the garlic, mint, onion and parsley in a small food processor. Transfer to a bowl with the ground meats.

Add the cumin, red chili flakes, smoked paprika and salt. Mix together gently with clean hands only just to mix. Do not mangle the meats together as this can lead to tight dense, dry patties.

Mince the parsley, garlic and onion in a small food processor. Tip into a small bowl.

Add the remaining sauce ingredients and whisk together well.

Salt to taste if necessary.

Grill the burgers on both sides to taste, about 10 minutes total for medium rare (more or less, depending on your grill). Grill buns if desired.

Dress buns with a dash Harissa cream and lay a light bed of spinach leaves on each. Top with a burger. If desired, dollop more Harissa cream on each burger.

Serves 4-6.

Cook's Note:  Harissa is an aromatic chili paste from Morocco made from roasted red chills and a variety of spices and herbs.  Hot as anything, usually, and very flavorful, it should be used cautiously. If you don't have a Gelson's-like grocer around, use your favorite hot chili paste like Sriracha, or Asian chili paste with garlic. There are lots of great alternatives.

La Jolla Roasted Breakfast Hash & Eggs

Thanksgiving is not only about the main turkey meal.  How about all the other meals - before and after?!

We had a wonderful breakfast at our Air BNB in La Jolla, CA, that avoided all the carbs we would get on Thanksgiving.  Turns out the great gas oven roasted veggies very well and made a beautiful savory hash possible.
1 medium head cauliflower, cut into small floweretts, I used orange
1 red pepper, halved, seeded and cut into 3/4-inch pieces
1 Tbsp fresh rosemary (or other favorite herb)
2 Tbsp olive oil

1 cup (1 small) purple Bermuda onion, diced
10 oz fresh mushrooms, thickly sliced
1 lb fresh best Italian local sausage you can find, uncased
5 oz fresh baby spinach leaves
4 eggs
1/3 cup grated cheese (I used a mix of cheddar and Monterrey Jack)

Preheat oven to 425F. Toss cauliflower with the red peppers in a large bowl with the rosemary and olive oil.

Season with salt and pepper to taste. Roast for about 25-30 minutes, until veggies are browning nicely along the edges, but still crisp tender - stir once or twice as the cooking progresses.

In the meantime, sauté the onions for about 5 minutes in a large oven-going non-stick, or well seasoned cast iron skillet (at least 10-inches). Add the mushrooms and sate until they release what water they will and start to brown a bit as well.

Remove to a bowl.

Add the sausage to the hot skillet and brown it for about 8-10 minutes over medium-hot heat, to brown nicely.

Remove to the mushroom mixture.

Now add a dash of oil to the pan and sauté the spinach until nicely wilted and releasing its water. You may have to toss some of the water from the spinach if very wet, depending.

Now, return the veggies and the sausage mixture back into the skillet on top of the spinach.

Then form four small pockets for the eggs. Crack the eggs and pour into the pockets. Toss grated cheese atop.

Bake for about 15-20 minutes, depending on your oven, just until the yokes begin to firm, and gloss over with whiteness.

Serves 4 for breakfast.

 Cook's Note:  This is a great escape from carbohydrates at breakfast.  Use any toasted veggies you might have from the night before, and add as many eggs as you have people to feed. - within reason...  The point is that veggies can swap for carbs at times.

Bird Rock Chorizo and Sweet Potato Frittata California

Breakfast at Bird Rock - I hope you can experience the wonders of a Pacific morning; fresh, cool, with so much to do before you at last put the country to bed.

Pacific morning, La Jolla

At our wonderful AirBNB in La Jolla, we experienced everything it takes to have a great break for Thanksgiving on the West Coast.  Warm weather, kayaking with dolphins, situated only a walk to the shore, with an excellent, well-stocked kitchen!  What a joy, as a break from traditional East Coast Thanksgiving at home.

Everybody arrived for the weekend before Thanksgiving - so feed them!  Always consider frittata.  Almost anything goes and it can be made fast - as long as you get up a bit early and set the coffee going!  We were west Coast, and so close to Mexico - definitely doing chorizo.  And our hosts had a fantastic herb garden, thriving on Thanksgiving; so, fresh lemon thyme and dill - oh thank you wonderful hosts!
1 small sweet potato, peeled and cubed 1/2-inch, about 1-1/2 cups
1/2 purple Bermuda onion, diced, about 1 cup
1 red chili, diced

10 oz fresh baby portobello mushrooms, cleaned and coarsely chopped
1 Tbsp fresh lemon thyme, minced
1/4 lb fresh chorizo, uncased
5 oz fresh baby spinach leaves
3/4 cup grated cheese (I used a ‘Mexican Mix’)

8 eggs
1/4 cup half and half or light cream (or heavy!)
1 Tbsp fresh dill (optional)

Fresh guacamole, about 2 cups, for garnish

Preheat oven to 400F. Toss the sweet potatoes into a large even-going non-stick skillet with a dash of olive oil. Sauté for about 6-8 minutes, until they begin to brown and soften. Add the onions and the chili and continue cooking for about 5-6 minutes, until everything becomes very fragrant.

Add the mushrooms and increase the heat. Sauté while mixing well to allow the mushrooms to release what water they will and brown up a bit - about another 8-10 minutes.

Set aside in a bowl.

Add the chorizo to the skillet and brown up for about 5 minutes.

Add the reserved veggie mix back to the skillet and then add the spinach. Mix with tongs as the spinach wilts, about another 3-5 minutes.

Beat together the eggs cream and dill. Toss the grated cheese over the veggie mix.

Pour the eggs over the mix on medium-high heat. Let the eggs cook a bit; you can stir gently once or just let it be - see Cook’s Note. But let the eggs cook enough such that they begin to define a clear (slightly browned) border on the skillet.

Advance the skillet to the oven and reduce to 375F. Allow to cook for about 15-20 minutes, watching carefully until the frittata is puffy and no liquid sectors remain. I would err on the undercooked side as the eggs will continue to set on the counter-top. Remove from oven and allow frittata to settle about 5 minutes, at least. It will sit for as good 30 minutes or more if you have guests - relax - and it will be wonderful.

Serve with favorite fresh guacamole.  Serves 4-6.

Cook’s Note: In this preparation I did not (have the time to) stir the eggs into the veggie mixture very much at all, so the eggs rose on top, soft and beautifully light as a feather, on a moist base of veggies and chorizo. The more traditional initial stirring should produce an equally wonderful, but perhaps slightly different result. Oh - the art of cooking!

Bird Rock, La Jolla, California

Mint Chili Jam Pork Tenderloin Caesar

Herbs infuse the pork with rich flavor, laying on a savory bed of slightly charred romaine, and garnished with Caesar dressing.

The classic Caesar dressing uses raw egg yoke, but I use a mix of yogurt and good real mayonnaise to avoid the raw egg.
1 1-lb pork tenderloin
2 heads organic romaine lettuce, sliced in half lengthwise

Marinade:
1/4 cup mint sauce (I used Waitrose Mint Sauce)
2 Tbsp hot and sweet Chili Jam (I used Trader Joe’s)
2 cloves garlic, finely minced
2 Tbsp seasoned rice vinegar
1/4 cup olive oil

Caesar Dressing:
2 cloves garlic, peeled
2 anchovies
palmful fresh parsley leaves
palmful fresh dill
1 green onion, quartered
1/4 tsp dried red chili flakes
2 Tbsp fresh lemon juice
1 tsp Worcestershire sauce
1 tsp Dijon mustard
1/2 cup good real mayonnaise
1/2 cup plain Greek yogurt

Whisk together the marinade ingredients in a bowl.

Pour into a zip lock plastic bag (or use a small shallow casserole). Add the pork to the marinade and toss well to coat.

Marinate at least 1-2 hours, or preferably overnight in the refrigerator. When ready to cook, allow pork tenderloin to come back to room temperature.

Prepare the dressing by placing the garlic, anchovies, parsley, dill and green onion in a small food processor.

Process just to form a fine mince. 

Add the remaining dressing ingredients and pulse to mix well. Taste the dressing and season with salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste.

When ready to cook, heat the grill to medium. Season the romaine halves with salt and pepper and sprinkle with olive oil.

Remove the pork from the marinade and place on one side of grill.

Place lettuce cut-side down, on other side of grill.

Keep an eye on both and turn as needed to assure even browning. Remove the lettuce after about 5 minutes, or when a slight char has been achieved, but the lettuce still maintains a crunchy integrity.

Cook the pork until it has achieved an internal temperature of 140-150F for medium. Remove pork from grill and allow to rest for 5 minutes, covered lightly with aluminum foil. Slice pork on a bias. Lay several romaine leaves on each plate. Top with several slices of pork and garnish with Caesar dressing.

Serves 4.

Cook's Note:  I love using savory jams to cook with meat, especially pork and lamb.  These are two of my favorites.  Waitrose is a higher-end grocer in the U.K. and if you are ever there, pick up some of there mint sauce.

If you don't have mint sauce, use a palmful of fresh mint leaves in the marinade and you'll be fine.