Yellow Squash Kale and Ham Strata with Ajvar Horseradish Cream

As casseroles come into season yet summer veggies like squash still linger, here's a comforting casserole with the convenience of no-boil lasagna.  I always have a bit of ham saved in the freezer for dishes like this for a quick preparation when comfort is needed.
Ajvar Horseradish cream sauce:
2 Tbsp butter plus 2 Tbsp canola oil
1/4 cup flour
2 to 2-1/2 cups milk
2 Tbsp Ajvar
1 Tbsp horseradish

1 large yellow squash, sliced
2.5 oz fresh baby kale
1/3 lb ham, cubed
1/2 lb Jarlesburg or Swiss cheese, grated
9x13-inch worth of no-boil lasagna sheet
1 doz fresh basil leaves

Heat oven to 375. Now prepare the Ajvar horseradish cream sauce. Melt the butter in the oil in a medium saucepan. Tip in the flour and whisk for about 3-5 minutes, until the flour is bubbly and the aroma becomes just nutty. Add 2 cups of the milk, the ajar and the horseradish. Continue whisking as the mixture comes to a gentle boil. Adjust the thickness with any extra milk as needed. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and remove from heat when nicely thickened.

Pour about one third of the sauce onto the bottom of an oiled 9x13-inch casserole dish. Lay half the squash slices on top of the sauce.

Sprinkle with half the grated cheese. Top with the kale, and pour on another third of the sauce. Then lay the remaining squash slices and half the ham cubes on top.

Lay the lasagna sheets over all and pour the remaining sauce over the lasagna. Sprinkle with the second half of the ham cubes, the remaining grated cheese, and distribute the basil laves about.

Bake covered for about 20 minutes, and then uncovered for about 20-30 minutes, until brown and bubbly.

Serves 4.

Roasted Island Jerk Chicken

I really wanted to serve Jerk Chicken, but the arrival time of our wayfaring passthrough traveling family members was uncertain.  And I did not want to spend time in front of the grill, instead of in front of them, during their quick overnight sojourn along their travels. Normally I would want to grill Jerk Chicken, but thought otherwise.

So I figured that the most important part of Jerk Chicken is the marinade and the marinating time.  I took care of that handsomely the night before, and then set the oven to roasting temperature, as soon as they called an hour away.  Lay a bed of diced tomatoes and rest the chicken on top.  Toss in the oven and everything's set for their arrival.

This dish is like a good old dog.  It can easily wait around for a weary traveller!

1 roaster chicken, cut into 10 serving pieces
1 28-oz can petite diced tomatoes, drained well, juice reserved for another use

Jerk Marinade:
3 cloves garlic
1-inch fresh ginger
3 green onion, coarsely chopped
1 jalapeño pepper
juice of 1 lemon
juice of 1 lime
2 Tbsp cider vinegar
1/2cup olive oil
1 tsp crushed red pepper flakes
1 Tbsp fresh thyme (or 1 tsp dried), chopped
1 tsp Kosher salt
generous freshly ground black pepper
1 tsp freshly shaved nutmeg
1 tsp allspice

Toss the garlic, onion, ginger and pepper into a small food processor and pulse to a fine grind. Whisk this mixture together with the remaining jerk marinade ingredients in a small bowl.

Place the chicken pieces in a large zip-lock plastic bag and pour in the marinade. Marinate at least an hour, or most preferably, overnight in the refrigerator.

Preheat oven to 425F.

Bring the marinated chicken to room temperature. Spread the drained tomato dice evenly in an oiled roasting pan. Lay the marinated chicken pieces on top of the tomatoes, and drizzle the remaining marinade on top.

Roast the chicken for about 30-45 minutes, until the chicken is browned nicely and juices run clear at the tip of a knife.

Serves 4-6.

Chicken and Red Pepper Enchiladas Crema

I recently joined a few old grad school buddies for lunch at a local Mexican restaurant.  I realized, like a hundred times before, that I don't eat Mexican nearly enough.  I had delicious chicken enchiladas in a creamy sauce that I reverse engineered here.
2 large chicken breasts
6-8 4-inch tortillas (see Cook’s Note)

1 large onion, sliced
1 red pepper, sliced into small pieces
1 tsp cumin seeds (or 1/2 tsp cumin)
1 tsp fennel seeds (or not)

Crema Sauce:
2 Tbsp butter
1 Tbsp canola oil
1/4 cup flour
2-1/2 cups milk
1/4 tsp garlic powder
1/2 tsp chili powder
1/2 tsp salt
generous freshly ground black pepper

2 Tbsp pickled jalapeño peppers, chopped
1/3 lb Monterrey Pepper Jack cheese, sliced
1 cup slasa verde

Preheat oven to 375F.

Heat a glug of olive oil in a large skillet. Tip in the onion and cook over medium heat for about 10 minutes. Add the red pepper along with the cumin and fennel seeds, and cook another 10 minutes. By this time the onion and pepper should be browning up nicely, sweet and caramelized. Add the garlic and cook another 2-3 minutes.

While the onions and peppers are cooking, cook the chicken. Set a medium pot with about 2-3 cups water to the boil. Salt generously and lay the chicken breasts in the water when boiling. Poach the chicken for about 10 minutes, until cooked through. Remove the chicken to a cutting board and allow to cool enough to handle. When cool enough, shred the chicken.

Now make a white crema sauce. Melt the butter in the oil in a small saucepan. When the butter slows its bubbling - most of the water is evaporated, add the flour. Whisk continuously for about 3-5 minutes. Add the milk and bring to a gentle boil, whisking often. Add the garlic and chili powders and season with salt and pepper. Reduce to a simmer when thickened up nicely.

After the onions are well browned, add the chicken to the onions. Add half the sauce and the jalapeños and mix well.

Spoon about 3/4 cup of chicken mixture onto the middle of each tortilla and fold in thirds. Place tortillas in an oiled casserole and top with any remaining chicken (you may need 2 medium casseroles or one large and one small to fit 8 enchiladas.

Top enchiladas with the cheese and then the remaining white sauce.

Spoon a few tablespoons of salsa verde on top along with some fresh oregano if desired. Bake for about 30-45 minutes, until brown and bubbly.


Garnish with fresh cilantro and serve with lime wedges and sour cream.

Serves 4-6.

Cook’s Note: I used half corn, half flour tortilla for these enchiladas from Trader Joe’s. I like them because they are lighter than just corn tortillas, but more flavorful and robust than just flour tortillas. They are a great mix of the two.

Salmon and Vegetable Lasagna

Here's the deal - we all want to eat more omega-3's and salmon. But HELP! How many times can you eat grilled salmon a week??

Stop the madness and start incorporating salmon into the casseroles that everyone loves.  But take also one step further and make sure those casseroles max out the veggie content and min the carb content.  Here's an idea using no-boil lasagna noodles which balances carb and veggie.

Oh, OK, Fine.  Opting out from these veggies? Swap your own.  Make this your go-to strata that will keep you fed well not only today but many days from now!
4 cups green beans, trimmed and cut in half
4 cups cauliflower, cut into small pieces

White sauce:

2 Tbsp butter
2 Tbsp canola oil
1/4 cup flour
2-1/2 cups milk
1 tsp dried dill

1-1/2 to 2 cups ricotta cheese
1/4 cup grated parmesan cheese
1 lb mozzarella cheese

1 lb fresh salmon fillet, cut into thin slices
4-6 no-boil lasagna sheets, enough for two layers of a 9x13-inch casserole
12 fresh basil leaves
crushed red pepper flakes (optional)

Preheat oven to 375F.

Bring a medium pot of water to the boil and salt it generously for the veggies. When boiling, add the beans and cook 2 minutes. Add the cauliflower and cook another 2-3 minutes.

You want the veggies only ever so slightly crisp tender - they will continue cooking in the casserole. Drain the veggies and rinse with cold water to stop the cooking. Drain well.

While the veggies cook, make the white sauce. Melt the butter in the canola oil and then add the flour. Whisk continuously for about 3-5 minutes until the mixture smells nutty. Add the milk and turn heat to high. Whisk regularly until the sauce just comes to a gentle boil and thickens. Reduce heat to the lowest simmer and add the dill. Salt and pepper to taste.

Pour one third of the sauce evenly on the bottom of an oiled 9x13-inch rectangular casserole. Sprinkle half the veggies on top.

Scatter half the mozzarella cheese over the veggies and dollop the ricotta cheese about the veggies. Sprinkle with half the parmesan cheese. Now layer the lasagna noodles over the veggies and press down gently.

Layer the salmon on top of the noodles and cover with another third of the sauce.

Cover with another layer of lasagna noodles and again, press down gently.

Finish by layering the remaining veggies on top of the second noodle layer. Nestle the remaining mozzarella cheese into the veggies and top with the remaining sauce and parmesan cheese. Scatter two thirds of the basil leaves over top (reserve the remaining leaves for garnish after baking). Sprinkle with crushed red pepper flakes, if desired.

Cover lightly with aluminum foil and bake for half an hour. Remove the cover and bake for another 30-45 minutes, until the casserole is brown and bubbly.

Serves 6.

Broccoli Rabe with Roasted Cauliflower

You've been avoiding broccoli rabe because its too bitter.  I know.  You can't hide.

Now try this dish.  Adding the honey, and sweetness of yellow peppers, mellows it out beautifully.  And the caramelized cauliflower also adds a smokey sweet note as well. Come out of the broccoli rabe closet.
1 head cauliflower, cut into bite-sized pieces
1 bunch broccoli rabé, trimmed and cut into thirds
2 Tbsp honey
1 yellow pepper, sliced
1 jalapeño pepper, sliced
2 cloves garlic, sliced
dash red pepper flakes

Preheat the oven to 400F. Toss the cauliflower with a bit of olive oil in a large bowl. Salt and pepper to taste. Tip the cauliflower onto a rimmed baking sheet.

Roast for about 30-45 minutes, until the cauliflower is beginning to nicely brown. Stir the cauliflower once during roasting.

Meanwhile, stir fry the peppers and leek in a wok or large pan.

Cook for about 2-3 minutes and then add the garlic and red pepper flakes. Cook another 2 minutes.

Add the broccoli rabe, and cook another 8-10 minutes, until the veggies are cooked but just crisp tender.

Gently fold the cauliflower into the broccoli rabe and turn into a serving bowl.

Serves 6 as a side dish.

Velouté de Potiron au Pommes

A velvety smoooooth soup of pumpkin and apple; a classic fall preparation.  Here I mound a serving of creamy cannelloni beans in the center of a wide shallow bowl and pour the velvety soup around it.  Garnished with pico de gallo fresh salsa, or fresh tomatoes, gives a cool, slightly picante offset to the buttery flavors underneath.  The beans also help make this a complete, satisfying meal.

8 cups potiron squash, peeled and cubed (about 1/3 of a Long Island Cheese squash - reserve remainder for another use)
1 large sweet Vidalia onion, cubed
2 leeks, cleaned, and diced
1 large apple, peeled, seeded and cubed
2 cloves garlic, minced

1 quart chicken broth
2-3 cups water, as needed
1 cup creme fraiche

2 cloves garlic, minced
1 Tbsp fresh rosemary, minced (or 1 tsp dried)
2 cans cannellini beans, rinsed and drained

1/4 cup fresh pico de gallo salsa, or diced fresh tomato

Heat a glug of olive oil in a large soup pot. Add the leek and 1/4 cup water. Cook until the water evaporates and the leek begins to soften, about 5-8 minutes. Add the onion and continue cooking on medium-low heat for another 10 minutes, until the onion softens and browns up just a bit.
Meanwhile, in a separate large non-stick skillet, sauté about 2-3 cups of the squash in a good glug of olive oil. Make sure the squash is in a single layer with some air in between the cubes, or you will boil, instead of brown the pieces.

This cooking is meant to brown up a few of the cubes of squash to add to the caramelization and sweetness of the soup. Not all the squash will be browned (unless you have all day!), just a few representatives, to liven up the flavor.

Cook the squash for about 5-8 minutes and then add the apple and two cloves minced garlic and cook another 5-8 minutes. This browning brings out the apple sugars as well. Make sure there is sautéing going on (with some light sizzling) rather than boiling, which will not flavor the dish much. Add oil to achieve this and/or remove squash to achieve space between the chunks.

Now combine the skillet ingredients into the large soup pot with the onions and leeks. Add the chicken broth and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook for an hour.

Meanwhile, heat another glug of olive oil in a medium soup pan and add the other 2 cloves minced garlic and the rosemary.

Cook about 2 minutes and add the cannellini beans. Simmer on low until the soup is ready, stirring often to assure the beans do not stick.

After the squash soup has cooked an hour, pureé the soup with an emersion blender (or use a blender or food processesor - VERY CAREFULLY - as the soup is boiling hot).

Now plate the soup - pile about a cup of beans in the center of each large, shallow bowl. Carefully pour a generous portion of soup around the mountain of beans, but do not cover (the beans should stand high). Garnish with just a bit of pico de gallo salsa, or fresh tomato chunks.

Serves 6-8.

Cook's Note:  I used a so-called "Long Island Cheese" pumpkin, one of the family of cucurbita moschata squash, to which also belongs the butternut squash.  These are popular in Provence, southern France, and most definitely have a richer flavor and color than standard halloween pumpkins (or sugar pumpkins).  Harder to peel, and leaving a bit more waste in the process, they are still definitely worth the effort!  We are seeing them more and more in markets in the fall. As a second choice I'd use a butternut squash.

Pomme de Terre Monique

Patience, Grasshopper.  My mother never studied meditation or Buddhism to my knowledge yet she practiced all the right mindful skills in making this dish, which she always made out of loving kindness.

Browned slowly, quietly, patiently, for a long time, this is simple food, and oh so satisfying.  The outer edges of the potatoes are crispy and slightly salty, while the inner potato has had a chance to transform into a smooth velvety, almost creamy consistency - you can't believe this is just potato.  You can keep it simple with salt - the original Monique.  Or you can do my variation with a bit of aromatics.  Either way they seem like some kind of manna from heaven.

Maybe this is a little gift from heaven she left behind for us to enjoy while we're still on earth.
4-5 Yukon Gold Potatoes (or favorite potato), washed and dried
2 Tbsp canola oil

For variation:
1 small onion, diced
1 Tbsp fresh rosemary
1 clove garlic, minced

Poke holes on several sides of each potato with the tines of a fork. Microwave potatoes whole for 2-1/2 minutes on high. Flip potatoes over (use a napkin they are hot!) and microwave again for 2-1/2 minutes. Flip one more time and microwave 2-1/2 minutes; a total of 7-8 minutes.

Remove potatoes to a cutting board with a towel, and carefully cut potatoes into quarters or eighths - about 1 to 1-1/2 inches. You can cut them lengthwise or widthwise - as you please.

Variation: If making a hash with garlic and rosemary, cut chunks in half yet again (see variation below).

Heat the canola oil in a large non-stick skillet and add the potatoes in one layer. Make sure there is space in between the potatoes. Cook over medium-low heat until one side browns, about 5 minutes. 

You should hear the gentlest sizzle - this should not be done over high heat; the idea is to brown the potatoes and allow them to steam cook gently in the center.

Shake pan gently, without knocking pieces over (this takes practice and you may need tongs to reset pieces). Do not stir the potatoes up - you want a solid browning on each side.

Now methodically flip each piece to another side and repeat. Then methodically flip potatoes to another side and repeat. You might even repeat one more time. Season with coarse kosher salt. This is the classic Pomme de Terre Monique.

Variation: If you like, you can vary to make a bit more flavorful dish with rosemary and garlic. For this variation use the smaller chunks, and add the onions after the first browning side.

Now gently brown the potatoes and onions, stirring only every so often. When the onions are caramelized - about another 10 minutes, and the potatoes have browned up nicely, add the rosemary and garlic. Season generously with coarse kosher salt and freshly ground pepper. Cook another 2-3 minutes. Garnish with fresh rosemary.


Serves 4.

Thai Red Curry Fish with Shrimp

Get more exciting with anyone you're cooking for, with this Thai aromatic seafood number. If you like seafood and you like Thai - this is your dish.
2 tilapia fillets, or about any favorite 1-1/4 lb white fish fillet, cut into 4 portions
1 dozen shrimp, shelled

1 red pepper, sliced
1 yellow pepper, sliced
1 onion, sliced
1 cup shredded carrots
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/2-inch fresh ginger, minced
1 tsp crushed red pepper flakes

1 can coconut milk
1 Tbsp fish sauce
1 Tbsp Thai red curry paste
about a cup fresh Thai basil leaves (or regular basil leaves)
5 oz fresh baby spinach leaves
toasted sesame seeds for garnish

Sauté the onion, peppers and carrots in a large skillet for about 10 minutes, until beginning to caramelize. Add the garlic, ginger and peas and cook another 2-3 minutes. Remove from heat.

In a separate non-sktick skillet, heat a bit of canola oil and lay in the fish fillets and the shrimp. Cook gently over medium heat, just enough to brown each side slightly. Remove from heat and set aside.

Add the coconut milk, fish sauce and curry paste to the pepper mixture and return to a slow simmer.

Add half the basil leaves along with the spinach. Toss well with the curry sauce to allow the spinach leaves to wilt.

Plate a portion of fish on each of 4 plates. Top with veggie curry mixture and three shrimp each. Garnish with remaining basil leaves and sesame seeds. Serve with rice.

Serves 4.

Summer Squash and Corn Casserole

This summer our friends had a bumper crop of yellow squash.  Here's a quick way to gratineé with corn, giving the dish a little edge with a tiny bit of creamy rice vinegar dressing.  You can use yellow or white corn, but I would suggest fresh corn on the cob for the sweetness and firmness.  You could also use zucchini or a mix of squash as well.
2 medium yellow summer squash, sliced
kernels from 2 ears fresh corn
1 jalapeño pepper, sliced (optional)
1/3 lb swiss cheese, sliced
1/4 cup bread crumbs

sauce:
4 Tbsp mayo
3 Tbsp seasoned rice wine vinegar

Preheat oven to 375F. 

Lay half the squash in an oiled casserole and sprinkle half the corn over top. Pour half the sauce over the corn, and layer half the chess over top.

Layer half the jalapeño pepper if you are using it.

Salt and pepper to taste. Repeat with the remaining squash, corn and sauce (and pepper if using). Finish by topping tight the bread crumbs.

Bake for about 30-45 minutes, until browned and bubbly.

Serves 4-6 as a side dish.

Pizza Pollo Margherita

The great thing about pizza - besides the fact that everyone seems to love it - is that there are so many different ways to make it, that you basically can't screw it up!  And like I always say, don't ever worry about screwing it up - you can always order pizza.  So order this up - at home.  And if you don't have one of the ingredients, substitute another.

Ajvar (aye-var), a middle eastern spread made from roasted eggplant and red pepper, makes a fine sauce base - but use your favorite pizza sauce if that's all you've got.
2 boneless chicken breasts, pounded to 1/2-inch thickness
1/2 cup favorite vinaigrette or Italian dressing

2 large prepared flatbread pizza crusts
1/4 cup Ajvar, red pepper and eggplant spread
1 cup fresh ricotta cheese
1/4 lb sliced Jarlesburg cheese
1/4 lb sliced aged cheddar cheese
1 fresh ripe tomato, cubed
8-10 fresh basil leaves, chopped
2 green onions, sliced
1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese

Marinate the chicken breasts in the dressing for at least an hour, if not overnight in the refrigerator. When ready to cook, return the chicken to room temperature.

Heat a grill to high. Grill the chicken about 3-5 minutes per side, turning several times.

Allow the chicken to just cook through and develop nice grill lines. Remove the chicken to a platter and allow to rest and cool to room temperature - at least cool enough to handle.

Meanwhile, heat oven to 450F. Spread the ajvar evenly about two flatbread pizza crusts on baking sheets. When the chicken is cool enough, shred into strips.

Layer the cheese and the chicken evenly on top of the ajvar. Top with dollops of the ricotta and scatter the tomatoes and basil on top. Top with green onion and the Parmesan cheese.

Bake pizza for about 15 minutes, or until the cheese is molten and bubbly.

Serves 4.

Cook’s Note: You can use any of your favorite cheeses for this. If you can’t find Ajvar, you can use Trader Joe’s red pepper and eggplant spread - which is basically Ajvar under a different name.

I usually cook 2-3 times the amount of chicken I need for recipes like this and freeze the grilled chicken, ready for use with other dishes at a moment’s notice.