Moroccan Lamb Burgers with Harissa Cream

Everyone seems so friendly in southern California.  You walk into the grocery store and get multiple warm smiles and hellos, even from nasty chihuahuas is ladies' purses .  What a lot of sun won't do.

I discovered Gelson's Grocery in Pacific Beach and smiled my way to their meat section.  They were well stocked with ground lamb which was score number two for them (the hellos were number one).  They also ground and mixed their own bulk sausage that looked so good I couldn't resist - score number three.

Now the real test to the store manager: "I'm looking for a rather exotic spice paste from Morocco called Harissa.  I haven't been able to find it anywhere and I realize it is not mainstream.  The last store had no idea what I was asking about, so I won't be surprised if you don't carry it."

His response, "Red or green?"  Score four, I smiled. Game over.
1 lb ground lamb
1/2 lb best sweet bulk Italian sausage, uncased
2 cloves garlic
2 Tbsp fresh mint
1 green onion
2 Tbsp fresh parsley
1/2 tsp cumin
1/4 tsp crushed red chili flakes
1/2 tsp smoked paprika
1/4 tsp salt

Harissa Cream:
palmful fresh parsley
1 clove garlic
1 green onion
2 Tbsp seasoned rice vinegar
1 Tbsp olive oil
1/2 cup plain Greek Yogurt
1-2 Tbsp Harissa (Moroccan chili paste) or other favorite hot sauce/paste

Fresh baby spinach leaves
4-6 favorite buns
1 lime, cut into wedges

Heat grill to high. Mince the garlic, mint, onion and parsley in a small food processor. Transfer to a bowl with the ground meats.

Add the cumin, red chili flakes, smoked paprika and salt. Mix together gently with clean hands only just to mix. Do not mangle the meats together as this can lead to tight dense, dry patties.

Mince the parsley, garlic and onion in a small food processor. Tip into a small bowl.

Add the remaining sauce ingredients and whisk together well.

Salt to taste if necessary.

Grill the burgers on both sides to taste, about 10 minutes total for medium rare (more or less, depending on your grill). Grill buns if desired.

Dress buns with a dash Harissa cream and lay a light bed of spinach leaves on each. Top with a burger. If desired, dollop more Harissa cream on each burger.

Serves 4-6.

Cook's Note:  Harissa is an aromatic chili paste from Morocco made from roasted red chills and a variety of spices and herbs.  Hot as anything, usually, and very flavorful, it should be used cautiously. If you don't have a Gelson's-like grocer around, use your favorite hot chili paste like Sriracha, or Asian chili paste with garlic. There are lots of great alternatives.

Green Apple Green Onion Chicken Burger

Say summer's not really over yet, by grilling another burger.
Burger mix:
1 lb ground chicken (I grind my own)
1 small Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored and finely diced 1/8-inch (about 1/3 cup)
3 green onions, finely diced
1 clove garlic, minced through a press
1 Tbsp whole grain Dijon mustard
1/2 tsp asian fish sauce
1/4 tsp crushed red pepper flakes, or to taste
dash salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 favorite hamburger buns
1 large fresh, ripe tomato, thinly sliced
good, real mayonnaise

Heat grill to high. Gently fold together the burger mix, preferably with your hands, without overworking the meat. Over-mixing will make a tight, dense and dry burger. Keep a light touch and form into 4 patties.

Grill burgers on an oiled grill for about 3-4 minutes per side, until good grill marks are formed and the chicken is cooked through (at least 165F internal temperature). Prepare buns with a slathering of mayonnaise and slices of tomato. Place a burger on each bun. Serves 4.

Black Bean Brown Rice Fritters

The problem I have with so many pancakes is the empty carbs - I need some substance to grab onto, especially in the morning.  While chocolate chip pancakes are indeed delicious, I prefer those with whole grains and fruit.

Or consider even a savory mix for a hearty brunch.  Here I use brown rice and quinoa paired with black bean and green onions to make almost a burger of a fritter.  You can fry these on a non-stick griddle as you would pancakes, or in a smaller skillet in a shallow splash of very, very hot canola oil, for a nice crispy finish - my favorite.
Dry
1/2 cup flour
1/2 cup coarse corn meal
1/4 cup grated parmesan
1 tsp crushed red pepper flakes
1/2 tsp salt
1 Tbsp black sesame seeds
2 tsp baking powder

Wet
2 eggs
1 cup non-fat Greek yogurt
1/2 cup milk
1/4 lb mozzarella or other favorite cheese, grated
1 can black beans, rinsed and drained
1 cup cooked brown rice or rice and quinoa mix
2 green onions, finely chopped

In separate bowls, mix together the dry ingredients and then the wet ingredients. Heat a large griddle with a few tablespoons canola oil. Now fold the dry ingredients into the wet ingredients and stir only enough just to mix together. You will get a thick batter the consistency of a thin cooked oatmeal.

When the griddle is hot, spoon about a third of a cup portions of batter to form pancakes. Cook in batches.

Allow the first side to brown over medium-low heat, until you see bubbles coming up the middle of the patty. Flip when first side is brown and cook the other side for a few more minutes until just browned.

Serve fritters on salad, and with a topping of plain Greek yogurts and salsa verde, if you like.

Makes 12-14 fritters.

Cook's Note:  These can be used for breakfast, brunch, lunch or dinner.  For brunch you might want to pair with eggs - that's what the French would do; they add an egg to everything, including pizza!  You could also serve with butter and maple syrup (my personal favorite).

Black Bean Brown Rice Fritters

flavored with butter and maple syrup

served with eggs, avocado and apple

Quinoa Lentil Burgers

Simon Fairlie estimates that substituting a meatless meal for red meat once a week, could have the equivalent carbon-footprint reduction as buying all your food locally for a year.  Even with his cautions of complexity and difficulties surrounding these calculations, his point is a strong one.  As much as a slight shift to vegetarian meals can have a BIG impact, not only on your health, but on the planet.

So listen to Paul McCartney's call for Meatless Monday - or choose your day, and eat well that day!  Try these satisfying burgers teaming with protein from the combination of quinoa (already VERY high in protein) and red lentils.  These'll stick to your ribs.

1 cup white quinoa
1/4 cup red quinoa
2-1/2 cup vegetable broth

kernels from 1 ear corn, about 1/2 cup
1 small onion, finely diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
6 fresh sage leaves, sliced
2 cups baby kale
2 eggs, beaten
1/2 cup Panko bread crumbs
1/2 cup split red lentils

Well in advance:
Soak the lentils in a large excess of cold water for at least 2 hours. Drain and refrigerate until ready to use.

Toast the quinoa in a medium pot with a bit of canola oil, until you hear a few crackles and pops - about 5 minutes. Stir constantly. Add the vegetable broth and bring to a boil. Stir, reduce heat to a low simmer and cover. Cook for 30 minutes, until all the water has been absorbed. When the quinoa is cooked, fluff gently with a fork and turn out to a jelly roll pan to cool and dry.

Meanwhile, sauté the onion and corn in a large skillet with a bit of olive oil. Add the sage and garlic and cook another 2-3 minutes. Tip into a large mixing bowl.

Add a bit more olive oil to the skillet and add the kale. Cook for about 5-8 minutes, until the kale has softened and lost any water it wants to release. Tip kale into mixing bowl with the corn.

Add the quinoa, eggs, breadcrumbs and lentils to the mixing bowl and mix together well. You should be able to form about 8 patties. If the mixture is too wet, add a few more Panko crumbs. Refrigerating the mixture for 20-30 minutes can also help form patties that hold together well.

Heat a thin layer of olive oil in a large non-stick skillet. Brown the patties in the oil for about 3-5 minutes per side, until each side is nicely browned and crisped. Serve on buns or a salad, or any other favorite way of eating a burger!

Makes 8-10 burgers.

Cook's Note:  Simon Fairlie writes a very sage analysis of vegan, vegetarian and omnivore diets, and their impact on the land and the planet.  His objective analysis proposes a thesis that meat, if raised properly can provide a healthy balance for feeding the planet.  But he proposes many changes to our food production processes, that will take a lot of convincing of big business.  A definite 'must read' for anyone serially considering the pros and cons of a vegan diet, and a good, though dense companion to Michael Pollen's "An Omnivore's Dilemma".

American Cheddar Chicken and Basil Burger

1 to 1-1/2 lb ground chicken
2 green onions, chopped
4 large fresh basil leaves, julienned
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/4 lb cheddar cheese, grated

Gently mix together the ingredients, preferably with your hands, being very careful to fold together, and not to over mix. Over mixing can make burgers tough. Gently form into four generous burgers.
Heat grill to high. Grill first side of burgers until well browned, about 4-6 minutes. Gently flip burgers and cook second side about 3-4 minutes, or until just cooked through. Serve with favorite buns and condiments.

Cooks note: we recently bought a grinding attachment for our Kitchen Aid mixer, and are now grinding our own meat. We feel we are a bit more in control of what we are eating this way, if not fully. Fresh ground chicken is outstanding, and we are liking it even more than beef. We find the burgers much lighter, with none of the water additive typical of store-ground turkey or chicken.

Black and Kidney Bean Cheese Burgers

This is not a great week for 'Meatless Monday' so I'll post this bean burger today - not tomorrow! But if you are serving anyone vegetarian tomorrow - go for this; it'll feel right at home at any BBQ.

1 medium carrot, peeled and quartered
1 small onion (size of a lime) quartered
1 jalapeno pepper, quartered
2 cloves garlic, peeled and quartered
palmful cilantro
1 16-oz can black beans, drained
1 can light red kidney beans, drained (not dark red)
1 tsp powdered cumin
1 tsp salt
½ tsp black pepper
1 cup grated Cheddar cheese
1 cup cooked brown rice or other leftover grains
¼ cup Besan (chick pea flour – or gluten free flour)
¼ cup bread crumbs
1 egg, very well beaten

If the rice is cold, zap it in the microwave for 30 seconds to make it a bit warm and stickier. In a food processor, pulse the carrot, onion, jalapeno and garlic until very finely minced. Transfer to a large bowl. Repeat with the cilantro (or parsley if you prefer). In batches, pulse the beans a few times just until they are very coarsely ground, not puréed. Transfer to bowl. Add the cumin, salt, pepper, cheese, rice, besan and bread crumbs and gently mix together. Gently fold in the beaten egg. Allow mixture to firm-up by cooling in the refrigerator about an hour. Form into eight patties. Carefully fry in a well-oiled non-stick skillet until browned on one side. Carefully flip and cook remaining side. Serve with your favorite condiments.

Cook's note: I have never met a bean burger that will hold up on a gas or charcoal grill grate. I doubt this would work on anything but a flat skillet.

Black Bean and Toasted Corn Burgers

1 cup cooked short grain brown rice, or other leftover rice
1 cup frozen or fresh corn kernels
2 15-oz cans black beans, drained
1 small carrot, chopped
1 small onion, chopped
1 jalapeño pepper, seeded
Palmful fresh cilantro
1 cup shredded cheddar cheese
1 tsp ground cumin
2 tsp chili powder
2 cloves garlic
1 tsp salt
1/4 cup Besan (chick pea flour)

If the rice is cold, zap it quickly in the microwave to make it warm and sticky. Toast the corn in a non-stick skillet in a bit of olive oil over medium-high heat, stirring often until the corn begins to brown. Meanwhile, chop the carrot, onion, jalapeño and cilantro in a food processor until finely ground but not puréed. Set aside in a large mixing bowl. Add the cumin, chili powder, salt, corn, Besan and cheese to the veggies in the mixing bowl.

Reserve 1/2 cup of the black beans and add to the mixing bowl. Process remaining beans in a food processor until well chopped but not fully puréed. Add to mixing bowl and mix well. Allow to cool in refrigerator for 20-30 minutes.

Fry burgers in a large non-stick skillet in a good bit of canola oil over medium high heat. Flip very carefully after about 3 minutes, or when the first side becomes nice and crispy but not burnt.
note: the Besan was very important to bind everything together - if you leave it out, the burgers will not hold together. Whole wheat flour, or a mix of whole wheat flour and corn starch, may also do the trick, but I have not tried that yet - just in case you don't happen to have Besan hanging around...

Garbanzo Falafel Burgers

My quest for the perfect veggie burger continues with this version, which is basically Falafel. You can vary this with curry powder or other veggies for many fine alternatives, I am sure.
1/3 cup bulgur wheat
¼ cup Besan (chick pea flour)
1 15-oz can chick peas, drained
1 small carrot, coarsely chopped
1 small onion, coarsely chopped
2 cloves garlic
1 Tbsp soy sauce
1 Tbsp olive oil
1 tsp smokey Pimenton paprika
1 tsp ground cumin
½ tsp ground coriander
¼ tsp red pepper flakes
palmful of fresh cilantro leaves
freshly-ground black (or mixed-color) pepper

First soak the bulgur by bringing 1-cup water with 1-teaspoon salt to a boil in a small saucepan. Add the bulgur, stir, cover, take off the heat and let soak for 15 minutes. Meanwhile, place two-thirds of the chick peas in a food processor along with all the remaining ingredients (that is except the bulgur and Besan). Pulse to form a mixture with coarse texture (the chick peas should be well chopped, but NOT pureed). Tip into a bowl.

In the same food processor, puree the remaining one-third of the chick peas to paste. Add to mixture in bowl. Strain the bulgur and press to remove most of the water. Add the bulgur and the Besan to the mixture on the bowl. Stir to mix well. Allow to chill in refrigerator for about 1-2 hours (I have not experimented with this, but read this in MANY bean burger recipes – it allows the patties to form better.)

Form chick pea mixture into 4 patties. The mixture uncooked will look like this.
Heat about ¼ inch canola oil in a large non-stick skillet. Cook burgers about 4-5 minutes per side over medium-high heat, so that the surfaces crisp up well. Take care to flip burgers carefully (I use two spatulas) as they will split easily.

Summer is Coming: Burgers Rule

Whether you like bacon cheeseburgers, or black bean and quinoa burgers, or grilled mahi-mahi burgers, the combinations are endless as we approach summer, here in New England.

We have been grilling burgers inside, but as the weather changes we are moving outside to cook. Bean burgers are done very well in a non-stick skillet on the stove, but apparently they can be done on a grill pan as well - that's for further study and reporting. But of course there are a million other ways and ingredients to construct a burger, and here is a collection of a few of our favorites we are finding along the way.

Brie Burger with Horseradish CrèmeBrie Burger
1 lb ground beef (grass-fed local, preferably)
1 tsp dried dill
1 Tbsp minced shallot
12 slices Brie cheese
4 hamburger buns
8 tomato slices

Horseradish Crème
2 Tbsp Greek lowfat yogurt
2 Tbsp good real mayonnaise
2 Tbsp prepared horseradish, drained
several dashes Tabasco sauce
1 tsp Marukan seasoned rice vinegar

Prepare grill. Gently mix beef dill and shallot and form 4 patties. Grill one side to taste - about 3-5 minutes. Flip and top with brie. Cover grill and cook another 3-5 minutes.

Meanwhile, whisk crème ingredients together. Makes just over ¼ cup – enough for four burgers.

Spread horseradish crème on bun bottom. Top with burger and sliced tomatoes.


Bacon Blue Cheese BurgerSome cukes and fresh sage and you're good to go. We find the best burgers we make are with grass-fed beef. A bit more expensive, but much better for you and the globe.


Trader Joe's Mahi Mahi BurgerWant a burger but need dinner quick? We keep Trader Joe's Mahi Mahi burgers on hand - love 'em.

Chili Salsa Pinto Black Bean Burgers

Be careful - they lie like a rug! Random bean recipes, that is - at least some of them. I have tried dozens in my quest to perfect the bean burger. Some are tasteless. Some just don't hold together like a burger - and warning - I never met a bean burger that grilled well on a BBQ without falling through. A grill basket might work, though.

Here is a bit of a work in progress. These tasted GREAT! But they were still a bit soft... I'm thinking more Panko, less salsa and cheese - I'll keep you informed. Letting them sit for five minutes after cooking let them pull together and firm up, well enough to be eaten on a bun. Everyone enjoyed them, but they were still very tricky to flip.

6 baby carrots, minced
1 shallot, mined
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 15 oz can pinto or red beans, rinsed and drained, 1 cup separated
1 15 oz can black beans, rinsed and drained
½ cup fresh salsa
1 tsp salt
palmful fresh cilantro leaves (or parsley, if desired)
2 tsp chili powder
1 tsp cumin
½ cup Panko bread crumbs
3 oz Monterrey Jack or other cheese, grated

In a small pan, sauté the carrot and shallot in 2 Tbsp olive oil, stirring often, until softened, about 8 minutes. Add garlic and cook another 2 minutes.

Set 1 cup pinto beans aside. Toss remaining beans, salsa, salt, cilantro, chili and cumin into a food processor. Pulse several times until coarse, not pureed. Tip into a bowl and mix in the reserved beans, Panko crumbs, cheese, and sautéed carrot mixture. Stir together well, and chill for at least 30 minutes [I left mine overnight]. Form into 6 patties.
Cook burgers on medium-high heat on a flat non-stick skillet [I find the ridged grill pans are not convenient for flipping and shaking/sliding the burgers as you cook], until browned on each side, about 5 minutes – watch carefully, and flip carefully. Transfer carefully to a cutting board and let sit for 5 minutes to firm-up.

Great with Cole Slaw.